I would have to drive almost 700 km to Livingstone, through the Zambian capital of Lusaka, so an early start was essential. More than one person had warned me that the almost 1300 km from South Luangwa to Livingstone on the T4, would be boring and uninteresting. It actually turned out to be an enjoyable trip, with the road leading through many small villages and markets, often following the railway line to Lusaka, and past huge tracts of land on both sides of the road. A fair bit of roadwork taking place along the way, but only good to see the road being maintained! 

In the past few years many South African and Zimbabwean farmers have moved to Zambia, who has a “liberal” view on foreigners taking up residence (and often citizenship) in their country, realizing the benefits and wealth of knowledge these people can bring to their country. In Zambia and a few other African countries, thousands of acres of land are being given to these farming experts on long leases, or sold at very competitive prices. I have met many ex South Africans and Zimbabweans on my trip, all happy with their move. I dare not think of the negative effect this “brain drain” must have had on the countries they left. 

Almost 16.000 km so far - from my hometown in Denmark to Livingstone. I guess it was bound to happen! On the long road to Lusaka there were quite a number of speed traps, and police checkpoints - most of which I was just waved through. Suddenly a policeman pointed at me, waved me in to the side of the road and told me to park the bike. I was very aware that I had been driving much too fast on this stretch of road - 89 km in a 60 km zone, I was told by the police. You can start of by showing your drivers license to the people in the police car behind the tree, he told me. I told the smiling officer in the backseat of the car that this was the first time I had been stopped like that in 16.000 km. Sympathetically, he said - that will be 300 Kwacha ($ 30). I told him I thought that was unreasonable. He immediately asked what I had in mind. 100 Kwacha I replied. Let’s settle on 150 he said. I paid up, and also shared a handful of boiled candy with them, which I keep in my riding jacket, for kids I meet along the way. Full marks to you for parental care, he said! On that happy note, I continued towards Lusaka.

Lusaka, the capital city, is estimated to have about 2,5 million of the 18 million people living in Zambia. I drove through the center of the city, with lots of road construction going on, and new shopping centers and buildings going up everywhere. Along a stretch of a couple of kilometers I passed a string of my favorite restaurants - Wimpy (for their breakfasts aaaaaand milkshakes), Nando’s (delicious spicy chicken), Panerotti’s, Steers and a few more. Unfortunately, it was only ten in the morning, so sadly I would have to pass. I was really impressed with the order in which the traffic moves - here seems to be a country where it’s citizens obey most of the rules! 

Still a long way to go to Livingstone, but eventually I arrived, just after five. Livingstone is Zambia’s premier tourist city, only 10 km from the famous Victoria Falls, and also very close to the Botswana border and Chobe National Park. There are dozens of hotels, lodges, hostels and guesthouses to choose from. I found a nice and reasonably priced guesthouse in the center of the city, with safe parking for my bike. It had been a long day, so a quick meal and straight to bed. My plan in Livingstone was to see the Vic Falls, the Livingstone Museum and also say hello to Pastor Katebe, Bible and Mission Center’s connection in Zambia.

The following morning I phoned Pastor Katebe - whom I had not previously met - to find out if he had time to say hello. Yes, yes he said, I have been waiting for your call. I have set aside today and tomorrow to show you around, and take you to the falls. A bit later he turned up at the guesthouse in his Toyota, emblazoned with “House of Prayer for all Nations”. What a bundle of energy he turned out to be, 43 years old, having established churches in Mozambique, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and the church in Livingstone. On Christian radio every Sunday. Also involved in establishing businesses for people in his congregation, he took me to a print shop, a barber and hairdresser, as well as a chicken broiler he had been instrumental in getting off the ground. While we were driving around he was talking to his wife, who had a speaking engagement at a women’s conference in Windhoek, Namibia. Then it was a guy on the phone he had been negotiating a deal with for a 30 seater bus for the church. He wants to be able to pick people up from the more remote areas on a Sunday, and bring them to church. A little later it was a call from his house, where there was a women’s meeting going on, and someone needed a lift to the bus, and another from Botswana needed some help with her passport. When I told him about my many years involvement in the graphic business, he wanted me to meet his graphic guy. It ended up being a one hour meeting at another building in Livingstone. It seems I have no way of escaping the printing industry! At one point through all this, I wondered whether I would ever get to see the Vic falls.

We ended up having a wonderful few hours at the falls, with Katebe and an elder from the church as a guides. Nothing like local knowledge, and I was taken to all the “hot spots” - The Boiling Pot, Arms Chair Falls and many other places. The Falls truly are a spectacular sight. There is no doubt that a visit will be much more thrilling in July or August, which has the right combination of water flow and spray, and affords you the best possible experience. It would also be the perfect time for game watching at Chobe National Park. Then you will know why the Falls deserve the name Mosi-oa-Tunya or The Smoke that Thunders. In some of the other months, when the Zambezi river is in full flow though, there is so much spray and mist that it can actually be hard to see the falls. We had a full view of the Falls, but there is no doubt that I would rather visit this magnificent site when I can hear the thunder. At almost 2 km wide and 103 meters deep, the Victoria Falls is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, and a World Heritage site. At their peak, after the rainy season, the waterfalls drop 550.000 cubic meters of water per second. When discovered by Dr. David Livingstone in 1855, he described the view in the following words: “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. 

On the way back to Livingstone, Katebe stopped at a huge baobab tree - about 9 meters in circumference - with a ladder built into the tree, leading up to a platform with a great view to the falls. The ladder was extremely steep and rickety, and would definitely not pass an inspection from a Danish building inspector. The view was great though. 

It was time for a late, late lunch which we enjoyed at a lovely restaurant called ZigZag. I had two great days in Pastor Katebe’s company. I was kept revving at full throttle for all the time. What a great man - what a great time. Thank you so much.

I decided to spend another day in Livingstone, and checked into Fawlty Towers Hostel. A good place to meet other travelers. Arriving at the hostel, I immediately ran into a Hongkong Chinese man, I had met on Zanzibar. In my 6 man mixed dorm there was an Englishman, 53 years old, who had been traveling for 15 years, mostly by bus and other forms of public transport. We spent quite a bit of time together, and it was very interesting to get his point of view after all these years on the road. We covered a lot of subjects, including our respective views on Brexit! 

Tomorrow I will be pointing my wheels west, towards Chobe in Botswana, less than 100 km from Livingstone.