With a population of some 110 million people, Ethiopia is the second most populous country in Africa after Nigeria. Driving along the Ethiopian roads you quickly find out that it can be quite difficult to find a spot where you stop without interference from anyone. To take a picture, enjoy the view, check your bike, have a bit to drink or eat. Usually, within minutes you will have any number of friendly Ethiopians watching you.

Only 5 months ago Ethiopia got a new prime minister, Dr. Abiy Ahmed after the sudden resignation of the previous premier. He is only 42 years old, with a Masters degree from Greenwich University in England, in transformational leadership. What he has achieved in his brief 5 months in power, is astounding. Brokered peace with neighboring Eritrea, announced a political master plan for his country, released all political prisoners including the opposition leader, lifted the state of emergency in the country, and reshuffled the cabinet, to mention a few. I have not spoken to one person who did not appreciate this man, and you really do feel the optimism. There is a whole different vibe, compared to Sudan, where things seem gloomy and people are likely to criticize their government in strong terms. According to a “usually reliable source” = Norbert of the German Guest House, Sudan is bankrupt and it is only a matter of time before they need a bailout! Driving through Ethiopia you see activity everywhere. On a more personal note, I would suggest for Dr. Abiy to allocate a substantial amount to fixing all the sh.. roads in his country, so that us “overlanders” can have a smooth ride without potholes!!

Midmorning I headed north, towards the Simien mountain range. From 7 weeks of not having to think about the weather at all, every day guaranteed to be sunny and very hot, I had entered a different temperature zone. All three layers were back in my trousers and jacket, and I usually started the mornings wearing a base layer of thermals, in temperatures around 8-9 degrees, rising quickly to 18 or so. Perfect for motorcycle riding.

I was going to the UNESCO World Heritage, Simien National Park in the northern part of Ethiopia. The distance from Gondar was only 150 km. Sounds like a 2 hour trip, but much more likely to take 5 hours. Your average distance covered while driving in Ethiopia will rarely exceed 40 km/hour. Arriving in Debark at the turnoff east into the park, I noticed a scruffy signboard which said something about a permit. I concluded that the permit would be available at the entrance to the park a further 15 km ahead, and took off. Only a few kilometers along the road the vistas were incredible. I was so absorbed in the scenery that I missed the entrance to the park, and continued along the road deeper into the Simien mountain range. Simien is said to rival Colorado’s Grand Canyon, and I can see why. 1500 meter plunges from cliffs into deep valleys, wide and far, vast haze views into the distance that makes the place seem almost ethereal. My first thought was - this is Paradise on earth. As I was standing on the cliff filming with my GoPro a group of the rare Gelada baboons (bleeding heart baboon) walked along a path just below me. They are to be found nowhere else in the world (am I starting to sound a bit like David Attenborough?).

It was getting late in the afternoon and I decided to head back. On the way I found the correct turnoff to the park and stopped at the gate. The guard told me I would have to go back to Debark to buy a permit, and then come back. After some searching in Debark I found the Park offices. They called the park for me to find out if there was any accommodation. Fully booked! I spoke to them myself, and they confirmed that I could put my tent up on site and use the ablution facilities there. The fee was very reasonable. I confirmed, and purchased my ticket for the park. You are not allowed to enter the park without an armed guard, “purchased” for about 800 birr (€ 30). I paid and was good to go! I thought. No, I would have to get the armed guard from the town of Debark to Simien Park. Couldn’t I just take him on the bike, they suggested. Already loaded to the hilt and with no possibility of fitting another person on the seat, I refused. I spent the following half hour trying to come up with a solution, but in the end I realized it was not going to be. I was refunded my 800 birr, but they refused to refund the entrance fee to the park. Disappointing, not for the money but for the attitude, and the fact that I would love to have spent a night in the park. Fortunately, I had taken the long drive into the park earlier in the day.

Luckily, I found a nice little hotel in town, the Simien Hotel, where I had a nice chat to the hotel manager, Bebba - a bright 4th year law student at Addis Ababa university. Another fan of premier Dr. Abiy! 

Tomorrow I will head for lake Tana, source of the Blue Nile and onwards to the famous Lalibela churches.