My police escort let me off the hook about 500 meters from the Alhambra Hotel in Luxor, where I had booked one night. They called the manager of the hotel, and a few minutes later he arrived on his small Chinese motorcycle, to show me to the hotel. It was well hidden on the westbank of the Nile. Walking into the fenced courtyard from the sandy, dusty and narrow alleyway outside, was just like entering an oasis (see pic). Very neat and tidy place, run and managed by Mohamad who turned out to be an incredibly helpful and caring host. He told me that the hotel was owned by an Egyptian-Swiss couple, who only came to visit once a year, for a short period. 

Mohamad (you will find that 80% of the male Egyptian population are called either Mohamad, Achmet or Hassan!) went through all the sightseeing options in Luxor, with me, for the following day. He suggested I take a taxi, but I told him I preferred venturing out on my own. I asked him for a place to eat that evening, and he immediately offered to drive me on the back of his motorbike to a restaurant he knew. I had a great chicken dish at the place, and walked back when I was finished.

Back at the Alhambra Hotel, Mohamad asked what I wanted for breakfast and when, so after I had a good nights rest, he served me a delicious breakfast at 07.30 in the morning. Apart from me there was only one other guest in the hotel, so Mohamad took care of everything in the place. August, September and October were really lean months for them, with very few paying guests, he told me.

I wanted to get an early start and needed to take a ferry across to the east side of the river, to see the first monument. Jump on my bike and let me take you to the ferry, he said, and off we went. At the ferry he gave me his telephone number and asked me to call when I was back, and he would fetch me. First class treatment!

One could easily spend 2-3 days in Luxor, monument hunting. I kicked off with the Luxor Temple, a 5 minute walk from the ferry. Luxor is sometimes referred to as “The worlds largest outdoor museum”, not least due to this magnificent temple, situated in the very heart of Luxor, a stone throw from the Nile. It was built 1400 BC, and in ancient times there was a 3 kilometer long avenue of Sphinxes linking it with the Karnak temple. This avenue is presently being restored. Even for an ignoramus like me, when it comes to Egyptology, I would have to say that this ranks top of my list. Just so you don’t think I have become a complete “history freak” I want to let future visitors know, that there is a McDonalds about 50 meters from the temple. I took a photo from inside McDonalds towards the temple, to show how close it is. ONLY to get the photo, and certainly not to sample an incredibly cheap and tasty strawberry milkshake - or two!

Karnak is only a 15 minute horse drawn cart ride from Luxor, and that was the option I took to get to this complex. Zorro, the horse, trotted along nicely, and it was great chatting to the driver, who spoke good English. Just like everyone else in the tourist business he was complaining bitterly about the lack of visitors, and how he battled to make ends meet. No question that many people are desperate, and it often shows in their approach to tourists; demanding, insisting or begging for you to use their services or buy something from them, using every trick in the book.

Karnak is easily the largest temple complex anywhere in the world. It was extended over a period of 1500 years by various pharaohs. One of the most impressive sights is the “Great Hypostyle Hall” where 134 massive columns are positioned close together. It’s a huge complex consisting of a number of temples, columns and sanctuaries. The place served as an administrative center, treasury and palace for the various generations of New Kingdom pharaohs. Karnak is probably one of the most well kept sites I have visited while in Egypt, and it was good to see renovations and excavations taking place. Some of the major sites I have visited, are totally unkempt, rubbish everywhere and you often have to search for the entrance where you buy your ticket. It defies belief that such world class and unique treasures are “treated” like that. 

Zorro brought me back from Karnak to the ferry across to the east side, and I took a quick walk back to my hotel, stopping for 5 minutes at a barber to have my beard trimmed. In the morning I would head for Aswan - with or without police escort - for that all important visa for Sudan.