Approaching Zanzibar, our ferry “The Flying Horse” found its way around a few container ships and yachts, and soon we could all disembark at Stone Town, the capital of Zanzibar. Most people refer to the capital as Zanzibar. Although the archipelago is part of Tanzania, you still have to go through security check and customs, and fill in an entry form for “The Revolutionary Government of Zanzibar”.

Out in the streets of Stone Town, I took a tuktuk to the place I had booked for the night, The Riverman Hotel, on the outskirts of the city. I had checked a map for distance from the ferry to the hotel, but must have miscalculated, for 2 minutes later I was at the Riverman - I could have walked there in the same time! I quickly realized that distances on the island are “tiny” - it is never far to anywhere!

Stone Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest living Swahili Town in the world. It is a busy town with around 250.000 people. I expected something more clean, slick and modern than it turned out to be. It is very much like most other African towns, ramshackle, littered but certainly authentic, with most people going about their work and business like they have done for years, oblivious of the many tourists. Everything on Zanzibar is considerably more expensive than on mainland Tanzania - hotels, food, water, transport and so forth. A big selection of fruits, vegetables and spices are on display and sold from numerous small shops. There is a big selection of food sold from small street stalls, much of it prepared for you on a grill as you wait - chicken or beef kebabs with rice or vegetables, coconut bean soup, octopus, calamari and all types of fish.

The archipelago of Zanzibar comprises more than 50 islands, situated in the Indian Ocean about 40 kilometers off the east coast of Africa. There is an estimated 1,6 million people living on the islands, with the majority on Zanzibar and Pemba. Many different cultures and countries have left their impression on the archipelago - Persians, Arabs, Indians and Europeans. It became a strategic trading center due to it’s clove production, and notorious slave trade. Zanzibar had a very short lived time of independence, when in December 1963 it became a sovereign nation. Already the following month there was a revolution, and three months later it signed an agreement with the mainland, at the time called Tanganyika. Using the words Tanganyika, Zanzibar and Azania (Greek for eastern coast of Africa) the new name, Tanzania was formed.

I had planned to spend 4-5 days on the island, and see as much of it as possible. What better way to do it, than on a motorbike! The receptionist at Riverman called a rental company he knew, and an hour later Salim, an Indian guy turned up at the hotel, so we could discuss a deal. I had checked the net and TripAdvisor for pricing on motorcycle rentals on Zanzibar $ 25 to 30 per day including everything, except fuel. I told him as much, and very quickly he offered me a “no discussion” rental of $ 20,00 per day. It’s a Honda 250 cc, he said, almost new, go anywhere on island! The following morning, as agreed, he delivered the bike to the hotel - a 10 year old Honda, with a number of minor problems, all of which I could live with. No electric start, only kickstart, which required a bit of explanation, because the starting procedure was different, depending on the engine being hot or cold! 

My first destination on the island was Paje, on the southeastern side of the island, about 70 km from Stone Town. I passed through the Jozani Forest Reserve on the way, the last remaining indigenous piece of forest left on the island, and home to the endangered Colobus monkey. I managed to spot one of these rare monkeys, with it’s spike grey hair and reddish coat (pic). There were also mangrove and nature walk excursions available at Jozani, none of which I took advantage of.

Driving around Zanzibar is quite strange, because you hardly ever see the beach or sea. The resorts - and there are plenty of them - are on plots of several acres, with tall concrete walls built around them, right out to the road, with a long driveway behind massive front gates, leading down to the seafront. All beaches are public, but you need to access them via some of the few public paths available. You literally drive a couple of hundred meters from the beautiful Indian Ocean kilometer after kilometer, and can’t see a thing!

I arrived quite early in Paje, so for a change I had time to check out a number of different place. I eventually settled for a place called Demani, a 5 minute walk from the sea but with a beautiful swimming pool area. Checking in, I noticed a sign announcing that tonight was party night, with a fixed menu and a DJ delivering the music. I decided not to take part, and instead have an early night. My little thatched hut was pretty close to the part area, and around ten o’clock I was awoken by the loudest music I have ever experienced, some kind of techno/electronic music that went on for 3 hours without a single break. I literally felt the blast from the speakers in my body. It didn’t make it better that none of the huts had any windows, just mosquito net and a couple of protective iron bars. Well, I had been warned, so nothing to do but grin and bear it!

The following day I first took a drive to the southernmost part of Zanzibar, before turning north and heading for Matemwe on the northeastern coast. I found a place called Mohammed Restaurant and Bungalows. After a long drive on a sandy dirt road - just the thing for the little Honda Baja - through a couple of small villages, I reached Mohammed! It was right on the beach, next to a diving center. Sadly, part of the beach was littered with plastic bottles and other rubbish, with a couple of cows snooping around in the mess. It is beyond me, why this sort of mess is not cleared. In the evening I had a nice chat to Mohammed and his 3 lovely children, as well as Isaac, the receptionist, a really pleasant young man. For dinner, I was persuaded to try some calamari in a pleasantly spice curry coconut sauce, all made in Mohammed’s own kitchen. I am glad I did - tender and absolutely devine.

Nungwi, at the very north end of Zanzibar, was to be my final destination on the island. After some haggling I got a great deal at Bagamoyo Spice Villas, and booked in for the remaining two nights. Whitney, the receptionist, kept me entertained for hours. There was only one other French couple at the villas, and she was just plain bored. She turned out to be a lovely Christian lady, engaged to a doctor in Dar es Salaam, so we suddenly had lots to discuss. It was interesting to hear her views on dating, marriage and life in general - from a Tanzanian woman’s point of view.

Nungwi most certainly became my favorite area on the island, with a different “set-up” than the other places I had seen. There are quite a number of resorts in the area as well, but the “hubb” of things take place at a central beach area, which has a number of hotels, hostels and other accommodation right on the beach. When I say right on the beach, I mean right on the beach! At low tide you can actually walk UNDER part of the buildings, built on the porous rock. There are lots of interesting shops and places to eat, or enjoy a sundowner, watching the fishermen bringing their catch in, on their small boats. Bagamoyo Villas were only a minute’s walk to this area. Having just arrived, I took a quick walk to the beach, and within a very short time was approached by a “Rasta” looking man offering me marijuana. Do I really look like someone in need of that! Otherwise, there are all sorts of more healthy activities - diving courses, game fishing, boat trips to other islands, kayaking, kite surfing, wind surfing and much more.

On my second day at Bagamoyo Villas, I took a ride to the western part of the island. Again, I would have to search for a path to get to the ocean. The bike would have to be returned at ten o’clock on the Monday morning in Stone Town, a 70 km drive from Nungwi, and I left Bagamoyo Villas immediately after breakfast, reaching the rental drop off point just before ten. I had wanted to fill the tank on the Honda, but there was absolutely no fuel to be had anywhere on the island. I tried 10 different fuel stations, all without fuel. Fortunately, I just made it to Stone Town, where I bought a ticket to Dar es Salaam - this time on the fast ferry, the catamaran, operated by Azam Marine. The wind had picked up, and the two hour journey turned out to be quite a challenge for a number of people. A catamaran might be fast, but it is not the most stable of vessels, and at one point the stewards had their hands full distributing “vomit bags”. People were sitting or laying on the deck outside the main cabin, filling their bags! Some of the covered Muslim ladies threw caution to the wind, and opened their veils to hit the bags. Fortunately, as I was starting to feel a bit of unwanted activity in my stomach, the trip was all over.

Back in Dar, I walked the 15 minutes to the other ferry to take me across to Mikadi Beach and my bike. I took a tuktuk to the campsite, and what joy and relief when I spotted the X-country at a distance, and everything exactly as I had left it 6 days earlier. While on Zanzibar, I had a bit of a guilty conscience, having left my incredible companion behind.

So what’s my take on Zanzibar. I probably did 600 km on the bike, and thoroughly enjoyed exploring the island in this way, in perfect sunny weather, exploring some of the small sandy tracks to the beaches and small villages. I have to admit though, that on the last day I was longing to get back to Dar and get on with my trip.

If you are the type of person who loves swimming, sea, sand and good food, with a massage thrown in now and then, a stay at one of the top resorts would be just right for you. If you are into water sports, Zanzibar would be magic for you. You could stay cheaply at one of the many hostels, and pay for the activities you want to do, or you could stay at one of the resorts. Also be prepared for some price haggling, and people approaching you to offer you something, who just will not take NO for an answer. Compared to Tanzania, Zanzibar felt like a different country. Keep in mind also, that I stayed in places costing at the most $ 25,00 per night.

i am certainly glad I visited the island. It’s a super laidback place, no rush, tomorrow is another day.