Four Wheels and Four Legs

050Namibia.JPG
Warning - Warthogs ahead!

We left Windhoek for a 6 day safari to Etosha National Park in the the mighty Toyota Condor with Allan, who prepared it by filling it with wine. Good on you Wine Rider! We prepared it by filling it with food!

Here is a Photo Gallery of our time on four wheels. There are a lot of photos in this edition, however, we have sorted through the 1,000 or so we took and narrowed it down to the following 50 odd...051Namibia.JPG
Liquor anyone
Grant wanted Gin.... The only place open was this dark and decrepid bar. All that was available was some dogey labled 'Old Buck' gin! Grant justified buying it with the thought that it could be used in the Trangia (alcohol buring camp stove), worse come to worse.

052Namibia.JPG
Guinea Fowl
These beautiful birds are protected in parts and there are often warning signs on the sides of roads for drivers to be aware that you are entering Guinea Fowl sancturaries.

053Namibia.JPG
Rhino & Giraffe
Our first night at the Okaukuejo Rest Camps waterhole and our first sighting of the shy and endangered White Rhino. Statistics on Rhino are not published by the Government as they are being protected from poachers.

054Namibia.JPG
Black Backed Jackal Pup
We were tormented by Jackals at our camp. Infact they managed to steal our left over food off the hot grill and out of weighted down pots!

055Namibia.JPG
Zooped Up Squirrel
Do not feed lollies to Squirrels Allan! This little fella really enjoyed his cherry sweet.

056Namibia.JPG
Oryx on the Pan
Etosha National Park is located on a large salt pan (120 x 47 kilometres) and is home to abundant wildlife. The pan is generally dry, however during the rainy season there is generally a 10 - 15 centimetre layer of water covering all, or part, of the surface. A record water level was recorded in 1931, a level of 50 centimetres.

057Namibia.JPG
Springbok
So pretty and so delicious to boot.

058Namibia.JPG
Lioness crossing our path
It was very exciting to be driving along when this Lioness walked straight by us.

Etosha is home to some 200 - 300 Lions. This is quite a high number for a park that is 22,270 square kilometres in size.

059Namibia.JPG
Zebra
There are approximately 15,000 - 20,000 Zebra in the park. Just a few then!!! It seemed like everywhere you turned there was heards of Zebra.

060Namibia.JPG
Giraffe at waterhole.
Drinking looks difficult for these tall creatures

061Namibia.JPG
Get off the road you crazy Zebra!
More Zebra.... thin filets marinated and gently grilled... mmmmm

062Namibia.JPG
Giraffe in the Bushes
Quintessential Africa. The Giraffe population is approximately 2,500 - 3,500 head.

063Namibia.JPG
Sunset at the Waterhole - Halali
As this time of the year was very dry, we did not have to wait long for the animals to come in for an evening drink or bath.

064Namibia.JPG
Waiting for the parade

065Namibia.JPG
White Rhino

066Namibia.JPG
Elephant Parade
2,000 - 3,000 Elephant call Etosha home.

067Namibia.JPG
Marabu Storks
Also known as the 'Undertaker Bird' these storks are carion eaters and supplement their diet with a variety of lizards and insects.

068Namibia.JPG
More Flippin Zebra

069Namibia.JPG
Another Family of Elephants

070Namibia.JPG
Bath Time for Babies

071Namibia.JPG
Red Hartebeest
We have not eaten these, but I guess they would be tasty too. They are the second fastest antelope in Africa. They can run at speeds of up to 75 kilometres per hour. It is very unusual for a Hartebeest to be taken by Lion as they can generally out run them.

072Namibia.JPG
Blue Wilderbeast

073Namibia.JPG
Grazing Giraffe and ever present Zebra

074Namibia.JPG
Honing our wildlife tracking skills we deduced Elephants had been through here

075Namibia.JPG
Kori Bustard
Africa's heaviest flying bird, weighing between 12 - 19 kilograms, lives in the grass lands (savanah). Thier diet consists of small vertibrates, insects and the gum from trees.

076Namibia.JPG
Allan shooting animals, probably Zebra!
We asked the Park Rangers if we could catch and eat one of the Zebra as there are so many in the park... they said no, to our disapointment.

077Namibia.JPG
Lions at rest
We sat and watched these lions for quite a while, they were lazy in the afternoon heat and rolled about like kittens at play, big kittens!

078Namibia.JPG
An old fella...

079Namibia.JPG
...taking a dust bath...

080Namibia.JPG
...whats wrong with his leg??? That is his leg isn't it???

081Namibia.JPG
Giraffe
It is hard not to take photos of Giraffe.

082Namibia.JPG
What are you looking at?
Giraffe give you such a quizical look at times, as if they are watching you and not the otherway around.

083Namibia.JPG
Setting up tent amoungst the natural lawnmowers - Warthogs

084Namibia.JPG
Unlikely bunch of lads
Grant and Allan give the thumbs up to another great day in the park.

085Namibia.JPG
Blue Wilderbeasts on the plains
After three days in the park it was time to leave, heading north through the veld.

086Namibia.JPG
The guy that just stands there.... Oryx

These magnificent antelope, also known as Gemsbok, have an incredible system for keeping cool in the hot desert. They have a capiliary system in thier snout that keeps thier brain cool while they heat thier body up to 45 degrees centigrade (mamalian body temperature is generally 37 degrees), thus allowing them to cope with the harsh day heat and keep warm on cold desert nights.

087Namibia.JPG
Outside the park strange palm trees line the road to Angola

088Namibia.JPG
Digging out the car - C21 Osataki to Opuwo
All maps and information indicated this was the main road to Opuwo. Grant did not wish to continue, Allan stubbornly wanted to keep going, no one listened to Jules.

Al gets the car bogged in the sand for the second time, Grant decided to take over the driving.

089Namibia.JPG
Main highway my arse!

090Namibia.JPG
Oasis in the Desert - Opuwo Country Lodge
Arriving here was like a dream after our stressful and hot day.

091Namibia.JPG
Grant contemplates the day and what tomorrow will bring.

095Namibia.JPG
KK our guide to the Himba Country

092Namibia.JPG
Jules with Himba girl at permanent settlement
The Himba are a tradionally nomadic peoples who still live in accordance with their traditonal laws and customs.

093Namibia.JPG
Permanent Himba settlement
This 'permanent' settlement is very austere and simple. The men leave to tend thier goats in the bush, while the women stay and look after the children and the village.

094Namibia.JPG
Mother and Child (only 4 days old)
This tiny round hus is where the Chief of the village lives. You are allowed to enter in one way and exit the same way, it is forbidden to walk a complete circle within the hut, although this seemed entirely impossible anyway!

096Namibia.JPG
Himba children

097Namibia.JPG
Women come to sell crafts
From birth Himba women do not bathe. They coat thier skin with a mixture of ochre and animal fat or vaseline (depending on what is available). This keeps thier skin smooth and moisturised as well as acting as a suncreen.

098Namibia.JPG
Girls working with beads
Traditionally a cashless society the Himba still pay for doctor or hospital visits with goats or livestock, however a modern development, thanks to tourism, women now undertake crafts for sale to tourists allowing them to make purchases (flour, salt, sugar etc) at the supermarkets.

099Namibia.JPG
Portrait of of Himba woman

100Namibia.JPG
Temporary Village
We thought the conditions harsh at the permanent settlement, but it was even tougher in the temporary village. Sheltered only by blankets over a tree that hold thier worldly possesions the women and children attempt to keep cool.

101Namibia.JPG
Grant and Allan in the thick of it
The children of this village loved having their photos taken, giggling wildly at thier images in the digital camera screen.

102Namibia.JPG
Kids playing
The young boy at the back did not want his photo taken, he was very shy because of his buck teeth.

103Namibia.JPG
Himba Girl
Himba Laws are very harsh. If you kill a man you are required to pay his family 10 goats per year for the rest of your life. If you kill a woman you must pay 30 goats per year until you die. Considering the harsh desert conditions and the ability (or inability) to raise enough goats for yourself let alone another family, the penalty is very high.

104Namibia.JPG
Road back to Windhoek

With our adventure over we arrived back in Windhoek where Allan finally had the nagging electrical problems with his BMW 650 Dakar sorted and we settled into Chameleon Backpackers and Guest House for a stay to wait for some important papers from Australia.