Close to heaven on Ruta 47

It soon became obvious to the four of us, (Grant and Julie - Suzuki V-Strom 1000 Hamish and Emma - BMW 1100) that the Ruta 47 (that's right 47 NOT 40) between the towns of Andalgala, Capillitas and Santa Maria was not normally the chosen route north for motorcycle travellers, or for that matter, anyone else as other traffic was conspicuous by its total absence.

Swimming Pools and Snow

Our last few days in San Rafael were lovely. Sitting on Tom's balcony, sharing lunch, enjoying the sun before the weather turned suddenly cold. The following day there was a bitterness in the air and no way to stave off the chill. That night it snowed and we awoke to a white wonderland. Fresh snow flakes glistened in the morning sunlight, piled upon the surfaces of everything around us. We played in the snow (such a novelty to us desert rats) and by lunch time it had all melted away.

Cabañas Calderon
L - R Miguel, Marie, Teresa, Jules, Soledad

Amidst tears and vegemite on toast we left the Cabañas Calderon and moved to John and Annette's finca for a couple of nights.

How many Blue Peter Points do I get for my Duck House??
L - R Andy, Maya, Annette

Like everyone else we ended up staying a week, pottering about the farm, enjoying thier company and hospitality.

On the road again - Camping Municipal, San Augustin

We had plans to meet up with Emma and Hamish... some where, some time.... We kept in contact on our travels through the beautiful National Parks Ischigualasto and Talampaya .

Parque Nacional Ishigulasto (Valle de Luna)

With the wind blowing through the stark landscape we set the tent up in the lee of the adminstration building before jumping on the bike and following the caravan of vehicles through the Valle de Luna (Moon Valley).

Dramatic colours and unusual rock formation carved by wind, water and volcanic action presented us with a spectacular environment for us to view and enjoy.

We and Miss Piggy became the centre of attention as the tour grew to a close and peoples curiosity grew. The usual barrage of questions ensued including the ever present 'How fast does it go?'

The some where happened to be La Rioja where we hooked up again with Hamish and Emma.

Grant and Hamish, not interested in Churches and searching for an unusually dressed baby Jesus, planned a route north that appeared to be mostly ripio (dirt), much to Hamishes delight, whilst Jules and Emma visited the local museum and churches, finally, finding the baby Jesus dressed as the Mayor!

The Franciscan Padre, who has worked at this museum for over 40 years, showing Jules the pre-Inca grinding stone for extracting copper

A pleasant ride to Belen and a visit to El Shincal, a pre-Inca and Inca archeological site was a good start.

Country Ride Out with Hamish and Emma - Belen

The friendly and hospitable staff at Hotel Anjelica let us tweak the bikes and use their brand spanking new, never been used before, kitchen as well as bringing us plates and saucepans to use from thier nearby home. We devoured our home cooked roast chook and vegies within minutes and played Five Hundred in the dining room.

Hamish and Grant on top of a Pyramid at El Shincal

Archway - El Shincal

We had been recommended the road, Ruta 46, between Belen and Andalgala by fellow travellers who shall remain nameless (Adam and Val).

The road turned out to be much like many of the dirt roads through the Mallee in Australia, ie sandy, corrugated and with many creek washouts.

Get your Kicks on Ruta 46

It was a lot of fun... if not bumpy, however, little did we know, it was good practice for what was to follow... The Ruta 47.

View from Ruta 47 - Andalgala to Capillitas

Lunching in the central park of Andalgala and heading off, we climbed to over 3000 meters in approximately an hour.... not taking into consideration stopping and admiring the views. The ribbon of ripio road twisted and turned on itself precariously, leaving litte room for error and oncoming traffic.... not that there was much.

MMMM Bar & Restaurant!! - Hosteria Refugio Del Minero - Capillitas

As time went by and the day was drawing to a close, we realised we would never make Santa Maria and at the passes highest point a welcoming sign announcing 'Refugio Hosteria del Minero' appeared. It was unanimously decided to head over what was little more than a goat track, to the hosteria and stop for the night.

Well this ain't too bad!?!?

It was all a little arduous after a long days ride, especially the final few kilometers, when Grant decided to lean Miss Piggy and her passengers against a cliff face and then a further 500 meters along the track, stall the bike on a very steep sandy corner. Fortunately on both occasions we did not actually fall off, although Jules did a fabulous running dismount on the second occasion.

Prayer time for Hamish

After Jules performed a little first aid on Grant's sprained arm, Grant then provided Hamish with a shoulder and neck massage. Dinner, drinks, hot showers, soft beds and much sleeping ensued.

Administering First Aid - Capillitas

The next morning we were filled with enthusiasm to continue on Ruta 47 and hoped the road was going to get better as it flattened out on the high plateau where it eventually joins Ruta 40.

Continuing on Ruta 47

Oh how we were mistaken!

Oh goody, more sand!!

Whilst the road presented us with many challenges the entire day, for example navigating the sand, riding through the rutted rocks, etc, it was hard work and to coign a much used Hameology 'It's all good fun!'.

Over looking the plains - Ruta 47

Most enjoyable, stunning high desert scenery with remote wild locations you could stay at for days.

Picnic

Winds up - Lets go fly a kite!

Cafayate was our first real 'touristy' town and a visit to nearby Quilmes (the people, not the beer) archeological site, tucked away in a nook of the surrounding mountains.

'What can we make out of these?' - The Budget Biker!

Dinner in Cafayate - Photo courtesy of Emma
L-R Emma, Hamish, Grant, Jules

The Quilmes staved of Inca and Spanish occupation for 300 years only to finally sucumb to Spanish power and the remaining 5,000 Quilmes people were marched to Buenas Aires, only 200 survived the trek.

Walls of an abandoned city - Quilmes

Old Bakery near Cafayate

We continued north along the Ruta 40, all dirt but quite rideable, with a strong gusty wind tossing enourmous clouds of dust into the air and depositing them mostly in our eyes, we eventually arrived in Cachi.

Ruta 40 to Cachi

Cachi, somewhat off the international tourist trail is a gem of a colonial town, we stayed 3 days.

'I'll just ride it up!' Putting the bikes away - Hotel Nevado Cachi

Grant and Hamish walking in the countryside whilst Jules and Emma did the girly shopping stuff and visiting more museums and churches.

Museo in Cachi - all the small stones have petroglyphs carved on them and are thought to have been used as decorations on the walls of the ancient buildings
Photo courtesy of Emma

Cachi town centre

Leaving Cachi

Above the clouds - Piedra Los Molina

Ruta 33 climbs continuously up the Cuesta del Obispo to its highest point at Piedra de Molina 3,347 meters where we stopped for a roadside snack and admire the glorious view as the dirt road literally plunges down through the Quebredara de Escopie and on to Salta.

Side trip to hidden valley Quebredara de Escopie

Quebredara de Escopie

Cuesta del Obisop

Hotel Residencia Astur in down town Salta, allowed Hamish and Grant to service the bikes and check the valve clearances right outside our bedroom doors and with new tyres we were ready to head north once again.

'Do you have a room for three?' - Grant enquires at reception, Residencia Astur
Photo courtesy of Emma

TLC in the Hotel Foyer - Residencia Astur, Salta

Iglesia San Francisco - Salta

Teleferico Cerro San Bernado - Salta