'So, where are the four lanes?'

According to our map the road, from Tarveta (border town with Tanzania) to Mombasa, was nothing short of a four lane super highway. Our map has been proven wrong in the past!After completing all border formalities we were not greeted with a 'Welcome to Kenya' sign, just 109 kilometres of bumpy dirt road.

Repairing a sheared pannier bolt

Technically it was a great day to be traveling. Perfect weather, one sheared pannier bolt and no Kenyan cash. After arriving in Voi and cajoling the receptionist we parked Piggy in the foyer of the Voi Town Lodge where she slept soundly and safely underneath African scenery murals and bible quotations.

Piggy in Reception

Stifling hot, crowded, dusty, chaotic is really all we can comment on Mombasa, a fleeting visit. As if walking through molasses we found Fort Jesus a 15th Century Portuguese fort complete with port callas and cannons. It houses a museum as well as public spaces for locals and visitors alike to enjoy.

Fort Jesus - Mombasa

Loose Cannon!

Fort Jesus - Mombasa

Soccer Stars in the Making

Escaping the congested roads of Africas largest and busiest port we hit the main highway.

Mosque at Mackinnon Road

We had been warned that there was quite a lot of road works. Smooth tarmac turned to slippery mud. Wide open spaces turned into a muck of trucks in various stages of breakdown, slipping backwards and generally driving disorderly. It was Raffety's Rules, no one appeared to be directing traffic and frustrated drivers were doing there best to get through the mess, as were we.

'Go Right!'

'Go Left!'

'OH HELP!' - Piggy in the Middle

Our daily walk to the supermarket, in Nairobi, takes about twenty minutes each way. Thankfully the weather is sufficiently cool enough this time of the year for it not to be a burden. We leave Jungle Junctions compound and are bombarded by the high BO Index as we walk towards Kingara Road. The sausage seller, corn vendor and firewood stand emit their smells mixed with the diesel of the busses and matatus (Kenyan mini busses).

Crazy Pavement - Road into Nairobi

Kingara Road follows the line of two hills. Down the rocky track worn by the feet of thousands of people to the small valley between. An evil smelling creek runs under the road. Its stench permeates your nasal passages evoking images of human waste. Not to be looked at too closely.

Checking things over at Jungle Junction

The upward track is no better. Dodging broken clay storm water pipes, choking on the fumes of uncared for vehicles, terrified of the speeding cars and trucks attempting to gain as much velocity as possible to make their way up the other side.

Battling the crowds of fellow pedestrians you ponder the wisdom of some of the women in their high heeled shoes on what is little more than a hiking trail as you struggle in your sturdy Mexican work boots.

Finally you reach the fashionable and elegant shopping mall filled with shops and cafes only to turn around and do it all again in reverse.

'Give Me Money' - Africa's Catch Cry

Escaping the cold, damp weather and smog of Nairobi we head to Lake Magadi, the worlds largest soda lake.

Road to the Ngong Hills

The picturesque ride over the Ngong Hills down the escarpment and across the floor of the Rift Valley to Magadi, a government mining town.

Ant Hill Sentinal - Lake Magadi

Flamingos in the alkaline waters of Lake Magadi

The company owns all the buildings and accommodation is nigh on impossible unless you have made preparations for bush camping or have an invitation from management to stay at the ‘Members Only Club’.

Soda Plant - Lake Magadi

Buildings - Lake Magadi

Not being prepared for either option we changed our plans,backtracking to Lake Naivasha.

1 Steep Hill, check!; 1 Broken Down Truck, check!; 1 Heard of Cows, check!

Camp Carnelleys, 17 kilometres from Naivasha town, is situated on the lake was a peaceful respite from the busy city.

Pelicans - Lake Naivasha

Visiting Hells Gate National Park provided a wonderful day out. Hiring push bikes we rode a 20 kilometre circuit to the gorge and back exciting zebras who seemed frightened by our squeaky wheels.

Fischers Tower - Hells Gate National Park

Grant terrorising Zebra

'I think I can.... I think I can....'

'The rock wall was thiiiiis biiiiiig'

Camp Carnelleys is a fabulous place to stay on the lake, brilliant hot water showers, shady trees and grass for camping, excellent meals at the bar and hippos calling out at night.

View of the Rift Valley from 8,000 feet - if you can see it through the haze!

As our passports were full from our last three years of travel it was necessary for us to organise new ones from the Australian High Commission. The staff were friendly and helpful. Two weeks later our shiny new documents arrived as did Mike and Bonny, our good friends, whom we hoped to travel north with.

A supberb Subperb Starling

Over some great meals we planned our route and picked out sights to see. They wished to Visit the Masai Mara and we felt a few more days at Naivasha was in order.

Masai Boy

Arriving back at the lake and relaxing into the afternoon Grant noticed a leak from Piggy’s rear shock absorber.

Pelicans - Lake Naivasha

Shit a brick, re-conditioned shock had blown after only 17,000 kilometres (the original shocker lasted 120,000). The following morning we made a bee line back to Nairobi... not our favourite place.

Harsh Country - Rift Valley

The thing is, in life, there is always some one worse off than oneself. Quite a bit worse off.

Somberly we rode off the dirt track to bounce and weave over the broken tar that heads towards Nairobi. Presently we came upon a small village, people milled about on the road, more so it appeared than usual.

The road becomes more congested with the crowding mass. We slow gently brushing people and curious as to the reason.

Jules gasps, Grant glances quickly to the left.

A large tree stands by the village market stalls, people congregate about it. Only a frozen glance, it remains.

A man limply suspended, a rope twisted about a tall branch, his neck tightly wrapped.

We leave the crowds, the village quickly. Problems? We have none.

Bush Church

Watering Hole - Rift Valley

Watering Hole - Rift Valley

ON A LIGHTER NOTE

Menu items have been causing great amusement of late; funnily enough they all involve chicken. Here are a few of our favourites:

Crime of Chicken Soup – We only use stolen chickens

Sweat and Sour Chicken – Explains some of the smells around the place

Chicken Gordon Blue – Who is this Gordon and won’t he be pissy if we eat his chicken?

Masai Farm

In response to our three years blog on the road our cheeky French friend Jean François made the following comment, we thought we would pass it on.

"3 years, 1096 days, 26280 hours and 120000kms that is just 4.56 kms/h

It's very slow

May be you could try to use your bike with the engine ...

It will go faster than to push it !!!"

Thanks for that!