All photos related to this blog entry can be found at Grant & Julie

Which way today?

The ferry was due to dock at 9:00pm, an announcement informed us of the delay until 10. We joined the melee at the door at 9:30, wanting to get to the bike quickly so we could get through immigration, customs and to our hotel in Tunis.For an hour we stood as the crowd grew and the space between people became smaller until everyone was pushed up against each other with hardly an inch to move. We were in the middle of the 'mosh pit', it was getting hot and sweaty and the smell of body odour infiltrated our nostrils.

As the crowd grew restless; there were shouts in Italian and Arabic, questioning the waiting, it was now 10:30 and pleas for people with vehicles to be allowed to go to the vehicle decks went ignored.

The rope barrier was finally lifted to the cheer of the crowd and the push began in earnest. The crush was increased by impatience. Traffic was bottle necked as people were trying to escape a portal that could not accommodate their number.

With an almighty heave, we burst through into the open space of the passage way, greeted by cool fresh air as we checked our pockets and belongings for damage and pilfering. All was in order.

Crumpet survived the seas and was upright. We rode off the ferry and to the immigration and customs point.

Border crossing procedure into Tunisia (for Australians with Vehicle)

- Australians are required to purchase a visa prior to entry to Tunisia or at the border (port in this case). Vehicle Carnet is not required, however temporary import paperwork is.

· At the port you will need to see the Chief of Immigration and present your arrival cards – one per person and one per vehicle (issued and completed on the ferry).

· 30 Day Tunisian Visa is TND105 each (AUD70.00). This must be paid in Tunisian Dinar. Cash machines and money changers are in the port complex.

· The visa will be inserted into your passport and postage stamps to the value of the visa will also be glued into your passport as a receipt of funds paid.

· Next you need to ride to Customs and park up.

· Go to the Importation Counter and fill in a Temporary Import card.

· Present the completed card to your the Customs Officer who will check your luggage (or not). The card will be signed off.

· Go to the Importation Counter for an ink stamp on the Temporary Import Form.

· Take the ink stamped card to the Cashier and pay TND30 (AUD20.00) for a postage stamp.

· Go to the Booth near the exit and present the postage stamp and card to the Officer inside who will enter the details in the computer and present a receipt document (carbon copy) and glue the postage stamp to the top copy.

· When free to leave you will need to present the paperwork to another Customs Officer who will check it and return the original (with postage stamp) for you to keep in your passport.

· Finally you need to present your passports to Gate Security and you can exit the Port and continue to your destination.

· Allow about two hours and remember this could be late at night.

Bumbling our way around Tunis at 1:00 in the morning was not our idea of fun. In a strange place where all the writing is either in French or Arab Script and street signs invisible, we were concerned about where we were going to spend the night as it seemed near impossible to find our booked hotel in the menagerie of one way streets.

Digging up some courage we pulled up to a group of men all dressed in black, lurking about a street corner. Asking for directions to our hotel they came out of the dark and into the light and said ‘Follow us.’ A police van approached, slowed and the men jumped in. We were police escorted to the gates of our hotel and had our first taste of Tunisian hospitality.

Ampetheatre, Carthage

A day out to Carthage was in order. This ancient city was first settled by the Phoenicians who built the port. Later (about 2000 years ago) the Romans came, and a flourishing municipality became an important staging post for the Roman Empires North African enclave. Eventually Carthage fell to the Byzantines and Rome was sent packing.

Antiquities from the Roman Empire can be found all over Tunisia. We took in the Carthage Amphitheatre (where the attendant let Grant ride Crumpet down into the site!) and the old city during our brief visit to the Tunis area.

Since the 2011 revolution, Tunisia has been suffering from a serious downturn in one of their major industries, Tourism. Tourists have been staying away in droves and the economy has reflected this. November to February is generally a very busy time for this nation, however, with the elections taking place, foreigners are even more concerned about visiting this tiny North African country. Not once have we felt threatened nor really uncomfortable, only welcomed.

Heading south west and away from the coast we stopped in Sbeitla and the ruins of yet another Roman City Sufetula. Sbeitla, as it is now known, is famous for its impressive gate, the outstanding Capitol and the beautiful mosaics still in situ.

Sbeitla Gate

We lunched at a little roadside food stand that sold the traditional leblerbi. This unique dish consists of a bowl of stale bread; a few ladles full of boiling broth (made from garlic and chickpeas); another ladle full of chickpeas; a couple of decent sized tablespoons of harissa (a North African chilli sauce/paste); good teaspoon of cumin; another good teaspoon of crushed garlic; a pinch of salt; a sprinkle of Tuna and some mixing like a Tunisian – the guys at the stall helped us with that bit as we were not crash hot at mixing the bowl filled to the brim!

This odd combination of soggy bread and spice actually turned out very delicious and more-ish. We took a bowl to share and gladly so as it is very filling. Lunch cost us $1. Over lunch we had a lively conversation about politics and the newly elected Government, life in Tunisia and life in Australia. Our hosts had a Degree in Languages and a Degree in Tourism. The current state of affairs saw them running a leblerbi stand to try and make a living.

There is good camping in the front garden of the Sufetula Hotel near the ruins. Even as campers you are welcome to use the hotel facilities as regular guests. We dined in the restaurant one evening, it was more expensive than on the street, however it was very good food. We praised the Chef for his fine cuisine and after dinner he brought out Chocolate Mouse and Tunisian Sweets for us, gave us apples to take away and encouraged us to have more of everything.

Our itinerary, generally made each morning, saw us head further south and deeper into Tunisia. At times the landscape surrounding us was reminiscent of outback Australia. The stands f Eucalypts and even pockets of what appears to be mallee scrub made us feel at home on the long otherwise barren roads.

Tozeur is situated on the edge of the salt lakes Chot el Gharsa and Chott El Djerid. It is the largest Oasis in Tunsia

We pitched up camp in Beaux Reves camp ground for a couple of nights. It is a small quite camp on the edge of the Palmerie. It is a romantic notion to be camping in your tent, under the date palms, in the oasis, in the desert. And it is, however, what the fairy tales fail to mention is that your sleeping bag is full of sand and the tread of your shoes is plugged with mixture of squashed dates and sand that forms a concrete like substance you could use to build the foundations for a skyscraper.

Enjoying the atmosphere of Tozeur and discovering a small eating place that sold the most delicious sandwiches ‘Charwarma’ (a Tunisian Donner Kebab: flat bread filled with harissa, chicken – or other meat, cheese, chips/fries and salad baked in a hot wood fired oven) we decided that we would like to stay a few more days and in a little luxury.

Transferring to the hotel Residence L’Oued we met Marko and Paula from Rome, Italy, travelling on their Triumph Tiger. The Trumpy had a broken mirror mounting. Salem, the Receptionist, had in good faith, tried to move the bike and accidently dropped it against the wall, thus causing the breakage. Grant and Marko worked till dark using all the tools of the trade know to international motorcyclists (cable ties, hose clamps, duct tape, loctite) to produce a functioning right hand mirror that would get by for the rest of their trip.

We were keen to see a bit more of the area so hired a driver and his 4x4 to take us on a tour of the local area. Our circuit would take in the oasis of Chebika; the canyon of Mides and Algerian Border post; the waterfall of Tamerza; across the salt lakes Chot el Gharsa; past Oung Djemel – the camels neck; and finally sunset on the sand dunes overlooking the Star Wars – Phantom Menace Set.

Fuel Ksar Ghilane

The tiny oasis of Ksar Ghilane sits in the sand dunes of the Sahara Desert. It looked, on the map, awfully isolated. On researching said area we discovered there is an ancient Roman outpost sitting in the sand dunes close by and apparently the southernmost outpost of the Roman Empire yet discovered, we had to go but having visions of hundreds of kilometres of sandy track to get there was not a pleasant thought.

Speaking with Marko in Tozeur quelled our apprehensions as he had visited the area two years ago with a group of friends, all on dirt bikes admittedly, and suggested it would be no problem for us. Convinced it would be ok and knowing Marko and Paula would be following we went and apart from several kilometres of sand just before the oasis begins it was a great ride.

Not wanting to go riding over sand dunes on the big bikes Marko, Paula and ourselves hired quad bikes and burned off into the desert following our guide towards the ancient fort.

It is very hard to describe what it is like to visit the Sahara. Words including hot; sandy; vast; dry all spring to mind along with peaceful; surprising and awe inspiring. No matter what superlatives we could find to describe our time there they will never do it justice. We can be glad that the memories will stay with us forever.