I've been to Hell and high water.

Hell, as you probably know, is a small village on the road to Trondheim. I wonder how many times it's signpost features on blogs and Facebook?

Apparently, if you go to the post office there, they will stamp your passport with an entry stamp for Hell. If that's your kind of thing.

The focus of my visit to Trondheim was the cathedral. This was a place of pilgrimage to rival Santiago de Compostela at one time, and it is certainly a magnificent building, with an abiding sense of tranquility, which was helped by there being only a handful of visitors at the time.

The ride through Hell and to Trondheim was great. Good weather, clear roads. That was set to change leaving Trondheim. Again, endless road works and clogged traffic. Took more than an hour to cover 20 km!

And then the rain came down again, in stair rods. Typically, I saw no sign of a campsite or any other form of shelter for the next hour or more. I just don't get it. Here we are, at the beginning of one of the country's 18 designated tourist routes and no services for tourists.

Finally found a motel - anything just to get out of the rain.