Woke to a dreich morning, but at least the rain had stopped (for now).

First stop, the Atlantic Road. And what a stop. It's only a short stretch, but makes up for it with wonderful vistas whichever way you look. And a fishy paradise. I just had to stop and get the rod out.

Casting a heavy jig bait out into the stream running under one of the famous bridges was simply magical. Had a start when a seal surfaced in front of me, almost as if asking what I thought I was playing at. Only caught the one fish, a tiny cod, but that's enough.

It's only a short hop from the Atlantic Road to the Trollstigen. Wonderful roads, not too much traffic - was I going to be lucky and have a clear run up the twisties?

Surprisingly, apart from getting stuck briefly behind a couple on Harleys who were having difficulty round the hairpins, I did indeed have a clean run from bottom to top. What a road. I am glad I went up it rather than down - I think that would be much more challenging (as I was to find out at Geirangerfjord).

There was a chap who rode up on a full-blown chopper not long after me - respect! It's tough enough on a 'regular' bike, I cannot imagine what it would have been like on that beast.

The weather was holding fair, so I just kept going, down into Geirangerfjord and back up the far side. I could have stopped hundreds of times to take photos, but I prefer to just keep riding and let the impression roll over me. Each to their own.

It was very blustery up on the top beyond Geirangerfjord, challenging riding conditions - and the challenge got tougher when the satnav took me off on a 'short cut' (OK, this was a route I had planned in advance) that turned out to be an unsurfaced road right up into the mountains. I actually passed a ski resort at one point.

The riding was great, but the other road users were a challenge. I was forced off the road three times by cars coming the other way that hogged the middle of the narrow track - two Germans and a Dutchman driving a Freelander with a look of terror on his face. They really shouldn't be on roads like that if they can't deal with it.

The weather began to change as I came over the top. I could see it closing in, and was praying that it would hold off until I got into the relative protection of the valley below. Fortunately, it did, but not for much longer.

My day ended in Stryn, in the rain once more, and a small campsite on the shore of the lake there.

Forecast doesn't look good for tomorrow.