DAY 11 - MON 16TH SEP 19 - MADRID TO POTES (APPROX. 270 MILES) THE RIDE TO PARADISE
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I thought I’d managed to lose another piece of electrical equipment this morning! This time it was the little USB cigarette lighter adaptor that allows me to plug into my motorbike’s electrical socket. I hunted high and low, and just as I’d resigned myself to having to buy a new adaptor from somewhere, I went to the draw where I was keeping all my bungy straps and there it was hiding in the phone holder that is now in effect, my satnav holder. In satnav mode the phone’s charge depletes very quickly, so the adaptor helps to recharge the phone, although a message does appear on my phone, telling me it’s too hot and therefore stops charging! Finally, I managed to get away around 9.45am, 15 minutes ahead of my normal schedule.
I had the Bluetooth headset up and running, and being as the phone was very hard to see in the bright sunlight, the lady’s voice coming through my headphones telling me which lane I needed to be in was very handy in getting me on the right road for Bugos, the next major town north of Madrid. The road to Bugos was straight and boring, but with Carrie Underwood playing in the background ( sorry I’m a Country Music fan!) it made the journey a lot more relaxing. After Burgos the road headed west but after 25 miles or so I turned off right and headed north. Now the road became more interesting, with lovely sweeping curves all the way to the top of the pass where I was rewarded with a view to die for (see pic below).
The road down the other side was a lot more challenging with enough switchbacks and hairpins to keep the most demanding adrenaline junkie happy! Then, just as my concentration level could take no more the road gradually eased up as the floor of the valley and Potes, my destination, came into view. Miguel, my Madrid guide, had told me Potes was beautiful; he wasn’t exaggerating! I reckon Tolkein must have visited here before dreaming up the Elf Kingdom, Rivendell, in Lord Of The Rings. The village surrounds a stream with 4 bridges of varying heights and size crossing it, with the sheer limestone sides supporting the various buildings that perch overlooking the river, and all in the backdrop of the spectacular Picos D’Europa mountains. Then to top off this little utopia, the hotel I’d selected through Hotels.com, after a chance read of a tour guide book in my Madrid hotel, about Spain where the Casa Caya hotel was recommended. It was an absolute gem! Along a cobbled pedestrian only lane, Casa Caya is, I guess, what would be described as a boutique hotel back in the UK, and although only one star, I would describe it more 5 star! Because I was unable to gain access along the pedestrian only lane, Hymie at reception left his post and helped me with my luggage up to a small but perfectly formed en-suite room overlooking the lane. He then walked next to me whilst I rode the bike down to the hotel's own private garage about 300 yards down the road.
After unpacking and showering away the grime and sweat of the day I took a stroll around the village to get some pics and just get a feel for paradise on earth! The only caveat to all this is that I would imagine that in the height of summer it would be very much like Windermere in The Lake District where the whole place comes to a grinding halt due to the number of Grockels ( a west country term for tourists!) driving through.
Having purchased a fine bottle of Rioja from the local supermarket I returned to my hotel where I explained to Hymie I’d like to eat in their restaurant. Initially I thought he was trying to tell me I was too late as they finished serving at 8pm. But once he’d settled me down with a beer and and a bit of tapas, I gradually realized that in fact he'd been trying to tell me the restaurant didn’t actually open until 8pm! During this time Hymie had confiscated the wine from me, presumably because the hotel have a policy of quaffing alcohol only purchased on the premises. But, once settled onto my little table, food ordered, out came my bottle of wine, cork removed and ready to pour! What a place this is, seriously Potes is as close to holiday Nirvana as you’re going to get! To all my readers. Please don’t tell anyone about this place, let’s keep it our own little secret, otherwise we’ll have every Juan. Jose and Miguel spoiling it for us! Oh, by the way the food was delicious as well!