DAY 17 (WALKING - DAY1) - SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN (APPROX 13.5 MILES)

Last night’s sleep was pretty awful. A combination of eating too much (I only ordered a medium pizza, but it was massive and, of course, I had to eat it all!) and some kind late night local rock festival was thumping out until about 3 in the morning.

As usual, when I start out on these long walks I’m filled with some trepidation about what awaits me with regards to poor weather, getting lost, have I bought everything I need, how will my dodgy hip and back cope? Well I needn’t have worried about the first couple of things, as the weather was dry and waymarking was clear and signs regular. And for further reassurance that you weren’t straying you simply had to follow the line of people on the trail in front winding away into the distance. It was like a walkers M4, starting in Hungerford and finishing in London! And a bit like the M4 with traffic moving at different speeds with vehicles of all shapes and sizes so it was on the Camino! And I guess I’d be described as an old sports car in the fast lane. I didn’t realise, but I’m quite a fast walker when I’m on my own and as I passed other traffic I would say, “Good morning” and I would receive a response of,”Buen Camino!” I thought that sounds a bit weird, but by the end of the day as I overhauled other walkers I found myself saying,”Buen Camino” to all and sundry!

The first little village we passed through had got wise to the fact that most people, like me, only complete the last 114kms of the Camino from Sarria and it was like Blackpool seafront with shops and cafes selling every kind of Camino souvenir and trinket you can think of! I gave it a wide berth and walked on through pleasant, rolling agricultural countryside, punctuated by trees at the side of the road bearing their autumn fruits, mainly of apples and sweet chestnuts.

At one point I walked past a male pilgrim emerging from the side of the road having just relieved himself and saying in what I thought was an American accent,”Jeez that was lucky I disturbed a bees nest back there whilst having a pee!” And so began my Camino association with Carlo and Michelle, from London (yes there is one) in Ontario, Canada! They were doing the full 800 kilometre Camino. We chatted for a while but because I was a much quicker walker I bade them farewell and continued on my merry way!

Portomarin is a small town next to a large reservoir. Apparently, the old town is underneath the water somewhere! The only things relocated, brick by brick were the old Roman entrance to the town and the church. Thankfully my phone took me to the front door of my hostel and I was ushered into a largish room full of bunk beds sleeping around 24 people I’d say. I managed to get a lower bunk as I knew I’d be up at least once in the night for a wee. Showered and changed I wandered downhill into the main street and decided on a little Italian restaurant doing an all-inclusive 3 course meal and a drink menu for about 12 Euros. I’m in there for 10 minutes or so and who strolls in , but Carlo and Michelle! So we spent a pleasant hour or so just chatting about families and stuff.  Having finished my meal before them I once more said goodbye, doubting whether I’d clap eyes on them again. I got back to the hostel around 9.30pm and everyone was in bed! I forgot to say in most of the hostels all you get is a bottom sheet and a pillow. I had to ask for a blanket as many of the pilgrims or peregrinos as they are known in Spain, bring their own sleeping bag.