DAY 22 (DAY 6 OF WALK) FRIDAY 27TH SEPTEMBER - PEDROUZO TO SANTIAGO – 12.2 MILES

I set off this morning just after 8.30am in steady drizzling rain and was glad to see my first coffee shop after a couple of hours walking (there were other cafes prior to this, but I made it a personal policy to try and walk for 2 hours before my first break, just to get a few miles under my belt). I’d timed it quite well as by now the drizzle had turned to proper rain, so it was good to get in the dry. It was really busy and I managed to squeeze onto a table occupied by two unconnected Swedish couples. One of the couples had driven all the way down from Sweden, after crossing on the ferry to Denmark. They had parked their car jam-packed with most of their worldly possessions as once they had completed the Camino, like me, they were returning to Sarria to collect their car and continue down to the Costa Blanca to spend winter in their second home, before returning next spring to Sweden. Apparently they’d been doing this ritual, minus the Camino, for the last 6 or 7 years since they’d retired. If I had the money and lived in a cold country like Sweden, I think I’d probably do the same! We all spoke about the dreaded B word and how it was affecting us in the UK. I mentioned about immigration being one of the reasons we voted leave and they too felt quite threatened and disillusioned with the big influx they’ve had, and the massive increase in crime, even in the small towns and villages. Even though they didn’t categorically state there was a direct link, it was quite blatantly what they were implying! And that’s Sweden’s socio-political situation according to the man on the street, well in this case women, as it was them that did most of the talking, no surprise there then! Only joking!

Although I rejoined my fellow peregrinos on the trail in steady rain, it gradually eased to a fine mist with visibility down to less than a hundred yards or so at one stage, but as the outskirts of the city loomed up out of the gloom it gradually cleared and by my second coffee stop in the suburbs, the sun was definitely thinking about putting his hat on. I now had a choice; go straight to the Cathedral right in the city centre, or go to my hotel which was only a kilometer away to shower and change. I opted for the latter. My hotel was based on the 4th and 5th floors of what was otherwise a tenament block of small businesses and residencies. After showering and changing I took a leisurely walk uphill through the old city streets, now savoring every step so I could fully enjoy the moment as I emerged onto the huge plaza in front of the towering cathedral. Now we all take tall buildings for granted, but imagine what it must have been like for the pilgrims making the same journey a couple of hundred years ago as they emerged onto the main square. No wonder the catholic religion was able to wield the influence it did all those years ago.

As it was now deep into the afternoon it came as no surprise to me to find out that the Camino recognition office was now closed after already issuing certificates and stamping 2,500 Camino passports that day (I can’t remember now whether I mentioned the procedure if you wish to receive recognition for completing the Camino. Obtain stamp book at the beginning of your walk. Each day obtain at least 2 stamps in your book from the various cafes, churches and bars that you pass en-route. Walk at least 100 kms before arriving in Santiago. Finally, take your Camino passport book to the official office near the cathedral to get a final stamp in your book and a certificate of recognition for your achievement)

 I would be able to return tomorrow morning, but I was approached by a distraught German woman who had also missed out and was due to leave the city early tomorrow morning. She had completed the full 800kms Frances Camino. Her English wasn’t very good and asked if I was able to help. The only thing I could think was to take her to the museum next door to the cathedral. There I explained to the Spanish female assistant, who spoke perfect English, the lady’s predicament. She stated there was nothing that could be done. I asked if the lady could send her Camino passport in through the post once back in Germany, but no, the only way to be officially recognized for your achievement was by attending the office in person. I know it’s stereotyping again, but I found it strange to see a straight-laced, regimented, efficient German walking away in floods of tears. Just goes to show we’re all human and subject to the same feelings and emotions.

I continued wandering around the vicinity of the cathedral along one of the side streets when I heard, “Hey Dave”! I looked across and sat outside the bar was Carlo and Michelle yet again (altogether this was my 4th chance encounter with them!) They were sat with a large international group of pilgrims, three of whom were good guitar players and between them a miniature guitar was passed back and forth, and various renditions of popular songs were being belted out by the whole group, with ‘I would walk 500 miles’ by The Proclaimers being repeated every 4th song! Carlo insisted I come and join them for a drink, which I did but you know how it is when you’re stone cold sober and everyone you’re with is absolutely blathered! They all roar with laughter at the most inane things and others were getting up and grabbing unsuspecting passers-by and expecting them to join in with their drunken jig. I’d only had a pre-packaged supermarket cold Spanish omelette (or tortilla as they call them)earlier that day and I was famished! So after a couple of beers I made my excuses and quietly left them to celebrate their 500 mile achievement!