So we ended up missing Jim in Rincon de Guayabitos. We waited around for an hour but to no avail. It was quite the adventure in itself getting to his house on the hill, severe inclines on cobblestone paths. We left for Bucerias, down the coast and ended up passing Jim going the other way and waved, as is done by most bikers. We stayed at the Cactus Hotel in Bucerias, just off the Mexico 200 highway, a little expensive but secure parking, and a place we had stayed before. Next stop was Barre de Navidad.
We have not had any issues with the roads or other drivers. All the locals are very courteous, not tailgating, giving us plenty of space when passing, and the use of the left indicator signalling the the road is clear ahead to pass. what we do find unnerving is that fact that there are no shoulders and the edge of the road is covered in 6-10 foot high vegetation, making seeing what's coming around the corner impossible. Thank goodness they have no large wildlife that we have seen, unlike moose, deer, or elk like we have in Canada. We have spotted cows, horses and mules at the edge of the road, but most are tethered. Cats, dogs and possums do not fare as well. The presense of buzzards is frequent, flying ever so gracefully on hot air currents.
Being the end of Oct and the start of Nov, Halloween and the Day of the Dead are co-mingled. Mexicans of old used to exhume their loved ones and have a large fiesta until the Spanish outlawed the practise. This is as big as Semana Santa. The celebrations carry on in the homes as well as the cemetaries for several days. People save up all year for this occasion buying special breads, liquor, floral arrangements and build alters in their homes to welcome back the spirits of their deceased. Many momentos are layed out in respect such as photos, heirlooms or someones favourite jug of tequila. The cemetaries are scrubbed clean and floral wreaths are everywhere in reverence. In the news there are concerns that this tradition is losing out to halloween, while others think that it is as strong as ever.
Military checks are frequent, most let us straight thru while several have asked us to open our bike panniers. Many army personnel can speak English and or have family in the U.S. They usually ask about where we are from and our destination, real informal stuff.
We stayed in Barre de Navidad for 2 days allowing for clothes wash and oil changes on the bikes. Barre has only 4000 people, is a sought after surf location, and is small enough to walk around. Our motel, Costa del Dorada on the main strip had kitchenettes which made cooking our own meals possible for a change.
When you look on the map the distances do not seem that far until you try driving or riding them. Many times the safest speed is only 60-70 kms per hour, and gas stations are far enough in between to cause for some worry.There was an impromtu cattle drive on the road, with people in mock steer costumes stopping traffic and asking for a toll. We managed to roll into Playa Azul before it got dark and found a motel without air. It was stinking hot until 3 in the morning making sleep fitful.