Sworn to serve and protect

We stopped a couple hrs. out of Acapulco for the night in Tecpan at a real nice motel, Hotel Villa Sol. 300 pesos, clean, good beds, spacious room and secure off street parking. The next day we made our way into Acapulco, got turned around a bit and spent an extra half hour worming our way thru one way streets. We were almost thnru town when we got pulled over by the traffic police. I was cited for speeding, while Carol was crossing a solid line. Both were bogus charges and so began the subtle dance of negotiation. Our ticket amounted to 600 dollars and then if we didn't pay it on the spot, it was 1100 dollars at the police station. I was willing to go to the station and call their bluff or let them have my license and then just take off. Carol, being able to speak Spanish, talked to them and they said that the police station was now closed, wouldn't be open for a couple days, all kind of road blocks knowing that we were just travelling thru. Meanwhile I'm fuming knowing that we are getting fleeced for no other reason than we are foreign and thus can afford to pay. With all the problems facing people with the police being corrupt, what should one do? While it chaps my hide to pay them, encouraging it to happen to others who follow, not paying has it's own pitfalls; perhaps time in jail, getting roughed up, impounding the bikes, wasting our time in the long run. In the end they lightened our load for $150. For the next several hours i kept playing the events over and over in my mind only to realize that they have the trump card. If this is to happen in the future I may push it to the end and force their hand. Later that afternoon we found another no-tell motel that would take us in and had a wonderful nights sleep, extremely comfortable bed. The next morning Carol's bike wouldn't start, so I put some water in it and spent an hour charging it from my bike. A couple hrs. down the road we ran into a road block. A young lad on a 125 saw our dilemma when we turned around to find an alternate route. He knew of a route which would take us around and beyond the roadblock; a route that he himself was taking and we were welcome to accompany him. Unfortunately, his definition of "bad" road differed dramatically from what Carol uderstood from his explanation. We started off well enough but descended into HELL (and stayed there) for at least 40 minutes. As capable as these bike are, they need as capable riders although in our defence, our loaded bikes were way too heavy for that kind of terrain; a fact that we all realized way too late to turn back. Extreme grades on 4x4 trails, fording streams, driving up and down 'slick as slime on teflon' rutted roads, falling several times snapping off a mirror. Carol fell once in ankle-deep mud and couldn't restart her bike. I suspected it was the battery acting up again. A couple young guys with a flat bed truck came by and within 20 minutes her bike was on the back of the truck. We had enough foresight to bring tie-downs with us for just this reason. Carol accompanied her bike on the back of the truck and I stripped what weight I could off my bike, added it to the truck, and followed. After another 30 minutes of violently jostling the bike around we made it into Pinotepa Nacional. The truck driver had a friend who fixes motorbikes, but after checking out his limited shop I asked if there may be a better equipped shop in town. So we drove across town to a shop that works on 125cc Itailka motorcycles. They were to busy to help but we found another mechanic next door that was willing to help. I explained about the battery problem and he filled it up with electrolyte charged it for an hour and we were as good as gold. We got to meet the whole family and the kids would bring out all their different forms of personal transport, Spiderman peddle bike and Barbie peddle bike. The were really cute and not shy at all. The mechanic's older brother offered us a place to shower and ice cold mango drinks while we waited. Asael Vasquez(mechanic) was so apologetic when he heard the story about the Acapulco police. After posing for photos for Asael, adding Fundacion Carlos Sarabia Camacho stickers to our panniers, we thanked Asael and his family for their generosity and their humanity and motored down the street from the repair shop to stay at the Hotel San Antonio where we had a well deserved sleep, feeling every bit of our age. In all, it took us over 9 hours to go just over 150 kms.

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