We got an early start on the road to Guatemala. A stop in Tapachula for some U.S dollars at the local bank and while my back is turned Carol is getting marriage proposals from the locals. A misplaced piece of paper stating I had in fact paid for my entry into Mexico was lost(probably when we imported the bikes at La Paz in the Baja) cost me another 26 dollars. This paper was needed on the exit out of Mexico. Next was the copies of the paper work provided by the Quatemalan border authorities. They need copies of the originals that they give but have no copiers to make them. So you need to walk around one building, up the street, make the copies, have copies stamped, make copies of stamped papers and then hope everybody has enough copies to satsify themselves. At times it becomes very challenging to keep one's cool in hot humid weather, being spun around like a whirling dervish, slowing down just enough for another person to get their hands in your pocket for their piece of your pie. It seems like a well oiled machine with the tourist on the losing end. Having done much research on the topic of border crossings we are still hit with small unforseen charges, bridge tolls, municipal charges, the line can move faster if you pay a little more. Signage does not exist, leaving you wondering where to go to next and all you want is out. The people behind the counters were nice enough, no attitude, it's just a process that" is what it is". Maybe if it was easy, everbody would be travelling by motorbike.
Leaving Mexico for Quatemala found a steep decline in road conditions. After 2 days of travelling on 2 lane in Mexico left us spoiled. Guatemala has shoulders on the road where small motorbikes, pedestrians, livestock and all forms of slow moving transport ply their way from town to town. Having to peer thru thick clouds of diesel exhaust from the buses makes finding the large, front wheel eating, potholes difficult to see. Then there will be pristine sections of asphalt allowing you to hit speeds of 80 kph, only to be broken up by unmarked patches of dirt and gravel whoop-de-whoops, or the occasional overladen banana truck stuck in the middle of the road with a broken axle or flat tire. The people that offer up their trucks for shuttle service should endorse leaf spring manufacturers. I saw one half ton truck with no fewer than 22 people in the back, rear wheel wells burying the tires and I swear the driver had to look out the door window to see in front, because the hood, now high in the air was blocking out the windshield.
As we made our way down the road, what was once a pleasant sun shower, cooling us off as we sped along ,turned into a torrential downpour. Time to find a place to dry out. As with many hotels in Central America and Mexico, outside appearances are deceiving. Facades with a serious need of paint or plaster bely what tranquil splendour lies behind wood and wrought iron doors. Some of these hotels are centuries old private homes with massive courtyards diplaying intricate stonework, tilesetting and plantings of exotic flowers and shrubbery. While just on the otherside of the wall is the sensory overload of billboards strung across the entire road, personal address systems blaring out some advertising, diesel exhaust, the high revved whine of 2-stroke motorbikes, and all manner of salesman hawking his goods on the street corners as you are stopped waiting for the light to change.
We road from Coatepeque thru Esquintla and then on to Antigua for a day and a half of sightseeing. Antiqua was the capitol for some time until a serious earthquake and fire destroyed most of it. It now has World Heritage status and is frequented by tourists from all over the world, many of whom come to learn Spanish. Tours for various natural and man-made wonder start hear. Not too far away live volcanos can be hiked as well as Mayan ruins in Tikal and Coban. Being a tourist destination, influences from the U.S. abound, with McDonalds and Burger King presense noted. More street beggars than I have seen in any other city, and lots of stalls and shops trying to sell you stuff you don't want. Tomorrow El Salvador.