Slowly clockwise round Europe

1000 km so far across the Netherlands and Germany. Dyke roads in Netherlands we're interesting but slow. Highlight so far has been riding in the Harz mountains and meeting some other (mainly Dutch) riders. Pension Der tourstop in launtenthal made us extremely welcome and is located in the middle of some great biking roads (and MTB, walking,zip lining...)

Today we rode into Czechia (Czech Republic) A bit of everything from the riding, unrestricted autobahn towards Chemnitz with Audi's and beemers coming past at 180 kph before we turn off on to some fantastic roads through the forest. Lunch stop is at the boarder town of Potucky. It has a real trading border town feel despite the lack of any physical border these days, market stalls selling all sorts. The roads change quickly,more pot holes and cobbles - hairpin cobbled roads were interesting, glad it was dry.

Today's plan was to find a motorbike shop so Carolyn could get some new gloves and to visit Sedlec Ossuary. Mission accomplished. Bikers Crown supplied the gloves then on to the Ossuary, one of the strangest places I've been, everything made from human bones, remains date from the 13th century and the monks started making patterns after the bones were moved from the cemetery to the church basement

A few days with friends in Krakow, a great chance to look around the city and have a home for a few days to recuperate a bit. Well looked after by our hosts.

Our first stop in Hungary is Eger, famous for its Bull's blood wine and holding out against an overwhelming Ottoman invading army. The story goes that the defenders in Eger were given the local wine which stained their beards red, the ottomans thought they drank bulls blood which gave them their strength. The local wine, Bikaver, is very good and there are 200 cellars in Eger to taste from. Can't say it made me feel strong.

Romania has been fantastic so far. Some amazing roads - with plenty of potholes - and some interesting towns. The ride up to Bucovina was great.

Then the ride around some of the painted monasteries.

After the trauma of Moldovan roads chateau vartely was a welcome relief.

Wine was good, rooms were comfortable and it's (almost) our anniversary. Wine tasting turned out to be better value than I thought when they gave us the rest of the (six) bottles we'd taken a couple of tasting glasses out of each. One ended up decanted into my sigg water bottle as the only way of carrying it on the bike

After a few days around Romania seeing the sights, today we rode the transfagarasan pass, topping out at 2024m. Made famous by Clarkson and his Top Gear buddies, lots of people said it was a gridlocked tourist trap; we got an early start on a Tuesday morning and was really good. Yes there was traffic but plenty of gaps to get past on a bike. A really good ride on a great road and a bit of a sense of achievement

It's been a busy few days since the last update. More mountain roads in the Carpathians. A visit to Bran castle, the supposed inspiration for the Dracula novel, touristy but interesting to visit.

We stopped in Busteni for a few days to go walking in the Bucegi mountains. The cross of fallen heroes dominates the skyline

Crossed Bulgaria via the Shipka pass, a really nice road, north side covered in patches of loose gravel from poor pothole repairs which slightly spoils the flow. Stopped at the monument of freedom which commemorates the Bulgarian forces holding off the Turks at the pass. 

First injuries of the tour, we managed to get sun burnt on our day on the beach 🥵

- stupid. Uncomfortable couple of days with biking gear on sun burn

Left the Black sea coast with a  blast to Plodiv on main roads, a couple of days to relax in a really nice town. Interesting old town and a really nice feel to the place. Lots of history from prehistoric finds, Thracian and Roman on the seven hills to 19th century Ottoman houses in the old town.

Crossed into North Macedonia Wednesday last, straightforward border but 55 Euro each for bike insurance!

Roads and landscapes have been fantastic, my favourite so far. Stayed in Bitola and visited the ruins at Heraclea

Down the shore of lake Prespa then over Galichica pass to lake Ohrid.

Monday 16th

Albanian drivers continued to be "challenging", out of their cars though people really couldn't have been nicer and more helpful. Pulled into a petrol station in Durres and the attendant points to the front of my bike - coolant is spraying out of the radiator 😭

I don't seem to have made time to update the blog for a while so here are some highlights from the last couple of weeks.

Kravice waterfalls and mostar in Bosnia

Sad days as we book the ferry and think about heading home. Part of me is sad for this fabulous journey to be ending, part of me is ready for home. The last 12 days in Spain have seen us on some spectacular roads. The N260 along the Pyrenees, Anso and Hecho valleys and the San Glorio pass in the Picos particular highlights.