After the trauma of Moldovan roads chateau vartely was a welcome relief.

Wine was good, rooms were comfortable and it's (almost) our anniversary. Wine tasting turned out to be better value than I thought when they gave us the rest of the (six) bottles we'd taken a couple of tasting glasses out of each. One ended up decanted into my sigg water bottle as the only way of carrying it on the bike

Day off the bikes Friday to go and visit the rock monastery at old orhei, good choice to take a cab as it's a trek uphill in 40 degrees, in bike gear it would have been unbearable

Back into Romania and the roads seem like heaven in comparison, drivers are still nuts. Nice stop off at Strunga castle and monastery and bumped into a couple touring on a vintage East German MZ