9.3.09. Valdivia.

Hot, blue days roll by, spiced by saucy rides along the very, very bike-friendly road to Los Molinos for more piles of seafood and quite a lot of staring at the sea and grinning. Cool black nights fizz away in jazz-sodden El Legado, where the Heineken is frosty and the service isn't.

There's something about Los Molinos... I go there six times in four days. Can't help meself. I've had a few bowls of Paila Marina but the one I have in Los Molinos is beyond language, so here's a picture.

Maicolpue, with it's $8 a night cabin 300 feet above the waves, is far from horrible as well...

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