Andes and Patagonia 2008-2009

A dream of many years, now getting shape.Back in 1974 when we (my brother and me) had our first bikes (Kawasaki 100cc) and rode up and down our mountainous country, we started thinking about riding through South America. We used to know about Peruvian-Chilean desert, Machu Picchu and other sites…..but no more. As not to many people at that time used to travel by road to distant southern countries, we speculated that Atacama, that appeared in the maps as a grand barrier, would be impossible for bikes,…… may be at night..….., but not more. And the dream began.

I needed to know roughly the numbers of the trip I was looking for. The first thing I did was displaying a South America map, took a notebook, and while going along the marked roads from my starting city to the most extreme city of the continent , added kilometres to get a number. I got 32.200 km. Next, I estimated riding times according to paved/off and mountain/valley roads; added border, visiting and resting times. I got 115 days. After that, I estimated costs: gas, hotels, meals, borders, tickets, parts. I got close to 5.000 US. I already had the main, albeit rough numbers.

Real traveled route could differ from the planned one, but for me is not possible to hit the road and just ride wherever somebody wants. I need a guide, a plan to going after. My route is consequence of others’ route. But I also have personal interests, specially about history, the reason for visiting small towns and forgotten roads, mainly in Peru. Simon Bolivar is our Liberator from Spain rule. After he liberated Gran Colombia (present day Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador), he went to Peru to help them to expel the Spaniards.

Traveling light means a easy bike handling, less stress on it and less stress on you when negociating the road.

Viajar liviano significa un más fácil manejo de la moto, menos esfuerzo para ella y menos esfuerzo para usted cuando tenga que negociar la vía. I made my packing list based in my experience, but checking out some lists posted in Horizons Unlimited and other sites.

Finally! Yes, finally I have some time and clear mind for writing, a not easy task while traveling as I just noticed after leaving. I´m now in Chiclayo, Peru, but let’s start from the beginning.I flew Calgary-Toronto-Medellin without problems. In Medellin was Suzi (my Suzuki DR-650) waiting for me, who will be my bike and girlfriend for the next 5 or 6 months. In a week, while being with my parents, I got parts, installed a rear rack and case, tested the way for tying the saddles and made some rides to be comfortable with the bike, but mainly, with the local way of riding/driving.

The Colombian-Ecuadorian border day was charged with lots of stress.First, the Ecuadorian customs official was reluctant to give me the standard Temporary Bike Import and asked for some bi-countries agreement paper that is only for visitors between Colombia and Ecuador. I turned back to Ecuadorian consulate in Ipiales were they were clear they had to retain my bike documents in order to give the paper. I went back to the border, and this time the official finally understood and gave me the temporary import.

I stayed 2 days in Chiclayo (November 5 - 6), visiting Túcume, Lambayeque, Sipán,and Chongoyape. Next day, I left for Caxamarca, 286 km in 8.5 hours. The first 100 km, Panamericana in perfect conditions. But after that, a very bad road heads for Caxamarca, an important mining center.In Caxamarca I visited Cumbe Mayo (Narrow or Fine River: canal), This canal is about 9 km long and was used for pre-Inkas as irrigation system.

The day I crossed into Perú (November 3), I slept in San Ignacio, a town in a coffee zone of the Amazon watershed. Next day, I left San Ignacio heading to Chachapoyas, 250 km far away. Nevertheless, 50 km after Jaén, the police notice me the road had been washed away by the Uctubamba River, and the repairing would take a week. I decided to turn back and ride down to the coast, the only way for going south. My day ended in Chiclayo, after 530 km and 10.5 riding hours.
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I left Chiclayo (November 7) heading for Caxamarca 286 km away. The first 100 km were very good, but as soon you left the Panamericana, the road is no longer a road, it’s just a track with the biggest number of potholes per square meter I have seen. It took to me 8.5 hours. But I didn’t stay in Caxamarca, I continued to Baños del Inca, a 3 minutes away city with wonderful hot springs, a recreational site for the Inca. I stayed on Municipal Shelter, next door from the hot springs. 2.5 inches of hot water come to my room bath tub.

I decided to stay in Caxamarca to take advantage of the into-the-room hot springs, and also to know some interesting places.
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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Decidí quedarme en Caxamarca para aprovechar los termales y además conocer varios sitios interesantes.

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My next journey was from Caxamarca to Huamachuco, 180 km, only 50 paved at the beginning, through a pretty valley with smooth hills. The paved road, with good surface and curves easy to negotiate, is perfect for motorcycles. The smelling of green eucalyptus and also smoked coming from the stoves, made this section unforgettable.

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The journey from Huamachuco to Caraz, Tuesday November 11/08, has been the hardest in my trip. I left Huamachuco at 5:30 am to try to get Caraz, 370 km away in my accounts, with only 65 km paved at the beginning and 50 km at the end. And I had no true references of a part of the off road, which appear in one of my maps without distances, and didn’t appear in the other one.

I left Caraz on Sunday, November 16-08, heading to Chavin de Huantar, an archaeologically important site because the influence it had in central South America. Its development starts since 2.500 years ago when Nazca Lines were also drawn.I’m sorry to say the Callejón de Huaylas (Huaylas alley) didn’t fulfil my expectation, at least up to the point I rode it: Catac. It’s a narrow valley that gains wideness up the river. Neverftheless, the vistas of the Cordillera Blanca are interesting, though the season is not the best because the clouds.
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In Huánuco I made maintenance: Suzi was washed and changed oil, my boots shined, my body renewed
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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En Huánuco hice mantenimiento: lavé a Suzi, le cambié el aceite, embetuné mis botas, y renové fuerzas.
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Cuzco has been built on top of Inca stonework
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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Cusco ha sido construído sobre las piedras talladas por los Incas
It’s said angles and broken lines make construction seismic-resistant.
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Qoricancha was the main Inca temple in Cuzco, meaning “ the precincts of the gold “. All the treasures, gold, silver and gems were robbed by conquistadores. Construction precisely cut rocks were used all around the city as general quarries. What a sin!!. Luckily, Dominicans, who received the precinct to built a convent, preserved some of the rooms that could be seen today under the colonial corridors of the convent. Horizontal and vertical cut rock interlocking and to-inside leaning walls have been seismic-proof through the centuries..

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Copacabana is a lovely beach town. I chose La Cúpula Hotel located up the hill with a beautiful sight over the lake.
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Amigo: ahora puedes leer la historia completa en mi libro "La Suramérica que recorrí". Ve a www.palibrio.com. Las fotos, míralas aquí.
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Coming from Coroico, I rode directly south of La Paz up to Curahuara de Carangas. Water is found only in a few valleys, making them a pretty picture. But most of the area is dry and with singular geological formations.-------------------------------
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Leaving the hard surface of the Salar means going riding 70% of the time on a no-comfortable surface: corrugation combines with hard, soft and VERY soft/loose sand, and with deep and narrow tracks to make a diversity of riding conditions, most of them trying to send Suzi to lay on ground..
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The road between San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, and Purmamarca, Argentina, along Jama Pass, is almost a straight line, very good pavement and amazing landscape. Lakes of different colors, and vicuñas can be seen..

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