Into ZambiaSaturday, had a nice easy day, bought the picture and got it signed by people I have met and enjoyed their company. Glad I came to this hotel, far from the best but would have missed the people and experiences, both excellent.
Went to the football match, local side won. Back to hotel to pack and wash, want an early start tomorrow as it could be 400-500 miles plus a border post to somewhere to stay and petrol. Must fill spare can.
Got up at 6, breakfast and left at 8-30. Nice quiet ride to the border, did not think, Africa, Sunday, nothing open, can cash traveller cheques, US dollars will now all be gone, filled up tank, can of spare fuel then headed for exit point, gave up and used a fixer for 20 dollars, worth it to keep the hoards at bay. I did the passport and he did the carnet bit. Into Zambia, 150 dollars US to get bike through customs and then another 50 dollars for a three month visa at immigration, I am the bank. Paid up and headed out onto the Great North road, Oh dear tarmac disappeared, potholes appeared and they were biggies, lorries grounding out. Took fifteen minutes to negotiate 100 yards and black stuff reappeared. Yup that makes it about a quarter of a mile an hour. Road is full of fuel lorries, hundreds of them, very good drivers, indicate for potholes and overtakes. 150 km of really bad potholed roads at one stage was doing a slalom through them, literally lock to lock as they were over a foot deep straight down and 6 foot round, bring the machine control days over here. Then a petrol station, never got below half a tank don,t know what all the panic was. Last 200k was fantastic by standards over here with signs saying beware loose gravel and flying stones, guess how they redress roads over here. Was happy doing 70 along it though, lorries have flattened most of it, just do not wander to the middle. The scenery is amazing, green for miles and views to die for, the landscape just rolls on and on. Must make a point of taking pictures, but narrow busy roads are not condusive to the idea. One thing I had forgotten was how all the grass gets burnt off but the trees do not suffer. Roads twist and turn through Kopjes, hills and valleys but no wildlife about. Kids do like to wave though.
Got to Mpika 450 miles and the border later, quite a long one, and found a reasonable guest house for 150 Kwacha. Settled in and had dinner and a coke and the owner arrived and talked. Said where I was headed and she knows Ndola, crashed Javelin, Coppersmith Arms now called something else and Kansenji although she went to the Convent. Small world hey Marlyn. The Forest Inn is still going so will stop there for a look (and camp) down memory lane on the way to Ndola , Another few days, great following my schedule, changes hourly.
Then started to talk about the goats in the garden, they were presented to Dr Kaunda when stayed here a couple of weeks back' for those not in the know he was the first president of Zambia. Lady has offered to take me to the Gore Brown house for 150 Kacha tomorrow so won't be moving on just yet (Shiwa is along a really bad dirt road and as most of the bruising has gone on the foot and leg I do not want to renew them). He was an Englishman and I think army officer who set up a house in the middle of nowhere to look after the people in the area and try and make some money, he failed. He was also a Zambian MP who supported Kaunda during the independence era. 24th or 25th October is Independence day that should be worth seeing and a stroke of luck that I am herre that day.
Sitting outside, 7-30 and watched a glorious sunset, orange/red horizon through to black with a church choir, singing off in the distance, some drumming and singing a bit nearer and a sky now full of billions of stars, can see the milky way very clearly and no it is not chocolate and have not heard an engine for ages. Oh yes forgot, am getting bitten raw so off for the insect repellent. Do not want you all to get jealous.
Just been told because of my past I can be an honoury Zambian but keep my British passport.