Was I really that stupid? Afraid so.
Well survived the Skeleton coast and Namib deserts somehow.Namibia to Botswana.
Although I could have done tarmac all the way, chose to head to Cape cross where the Portuguese left a marker in the 16th century I think and then across the desert to Otjiwarongo road. Turned off before Torra bay and headed west along a track several junctions???? and on to Omaruru. Did not see all the junctions and it was actually one of the most terrifying things I have done or ever will do. Next time I will think. The road up into the Skeleton coast park was hard riding loaded up but easy to follow. After turning off, I saw no one for hours and it suddenly dawned on me that if anything went wrong I would be in very serious trouble. Did not find any of the tourist sights to visit and just kept focused on the next 500m or kilometer just sand and gravel with the occasional black surface not tarmac. Drank 6 of the 10 litres of water I had with me and became totally disorientated several times, convinced I was going wrong, hard not to do what the voices in your head are telling you and sticking with your logic. Was good to see a town that turned out to be Omaru in the distance and go ask if I was there. Respect to the old ox wagons that did 4 miles an hour and no tracks through it. It really was terrifying at times, lost the track and then I picked it up again, often at right angles wanted to go the wrong way, or even just a line of stones or telegraph poles. Really taught me to doubt myself but believe the map and compass. Really glad to get to Karibib and petrol as had used the 20 litres in the 2 large water bottles on top of the boxes and down to one bar on the gauge. From now on tarmac is the way with sign posts and petrol stations.
53 litres would have done 550km on the road but only did 220km or so, musy have been low gear high revs all the way.
Amazing thing was after the ride I just shut it out and got on with getting to where I wanted to be. Only when I was asleep and having bad dreams did it actually come back, reliving all the doubts and bad experiences of which there were one or two. Guess the answer is done it and do not do it again unless there is some back-up. Could also explain why I was not thinking straight at Windhoek.
Stopped today at 10am (less than 100km) as I was just not with it, riding like a pillock and very unaware. Found a place at the border and do not care about my own rules, a couple of beers, music and relax in the shade. Need to get parts of yesterday in the suitcase and forgotten, there were some really good bits, scenery, never turn back and believe in yourself, finally think before you take things on. 1 liter of Windhoek Draught and things are much better by 2:30, need a teddy to take the nightmares away.
But survived the skeleton coast, the Namib and Kalihari deserts what is there to moan at, Camber sands no problem and they sell icecream there.
1st December.
Sorted out and compartmented everything. Just forget it and try to remember for the future. Amazing what music, beer and sleeping can do for ones head. Managed to lose all my medication I had with me so need to get back to Joburg for the stuff there, idiot that I am. Got the malaria tablets though so mostly good. Said my goodbyes to the biker who ran the site on the border and headed out in the rain, yes Kalihari desert and chucking it down. Got through the borders in less than half an hour. Had filled up but needed more so headed to Ghanzi as it was 200km in the other direction before petrol. When I looked at my passport in Ghanzi I have a 5 day visa??? As I sorting myself out in the petrol station a lady asked if she could have her picture taken with the bike, next thing I know she climbs on, over balances and I am hanging on the bars while a bloke pushed from his side, all good but 15 minutes later and half the population of Ghanzi and passerbys have had their photos taken, with the bike and cuddling me. Filled the bike up, tipped the lady attendant who waved the tip in the other girls face and said see I was right some white people especially with motorbikes tip real good. So partially dried out thought well forget the Okovango Delta, Gaberone and on to Joburg instead. Should manage that in 5 days.
It has rained all day, thunder, lightning, wind. Dry out get soaked, done 500KM and decided enough was enough, stopped at a rather peculiar looking guesthouse, very rustic African, logs, wooden fence, rather nice in a town called Tang. Booked in got told to take bike round to room along a dirt, sand track, bogged down in wet sand, hopped off and pushed using 2nd gear got it out and thanks to one Patsy leapt on side saddle when it was going, stopped on the gravel and climbed on properly (yeah I know I am chicken). Got to the room and was told very firmly to park on the stoep, the parking bay is for cars, no problem it can be cleaned so did, almost in bed with me (sandy tyre marks and bike).
No electricity, thought have a shower, oh I can not, its electric. Filled up kettle, plugged it in oh dear you guess, I chose the place because it has wifi, update blog, oh no, no electricity, sat outside to type it up, the sun has come out and it is really hot. 4 oclock and sitting drying things out, hope tomorrows weather is better. Have to say, people in Botswana are so much nicer and more fun than in South Africa and Namibia, really up for a laugh and very relaxed. Hey electricity at 6-30, how long for? Africa is amazing.