Another bit of the trip.Windhoek – Swakopmund

Got up at 6 and dressed but had to wait for the car behind the bike to move so left at 8-30 but had a good nights sleep. Headed out of the capital Windhoek and did not see a petrol station but had 170K of fuel so headed north. Road surface was poor and a couple of points the old kidneys took a bashing with the bumps. Why is it junctions and cities with the worst roads? Surrounded by mountains and really very pretty semi desert, low bushes and trees only a couple of meter’s high. Hit the countryside and roads deteriorated to patched up and very slippery until petrol stop at 60km. Filled up and another Yamaha, a Super Tenere pulled up the other side of the pump. Quick hello as not very talkative and I headed off. South African and Namibian motorcyclists are like UKs, not very communicative, elsewhere they have been very helpful and want to talk offer advice etc. Turned onto the next national singal lane highway and headed to Swakopmund. The scenery turned even more desert and then full desert. Sand but not dunes, windy but sand not blowing not what I expected. 50km out could see the black clouds and by 50 it was damp, desert and chilly. Kept going getting colder and was at one point thinking of stopping to put on waterproofs. Desert was now white sand and nothing else but mountains in background. Over a rise and there was golden dunes a few km away, really stood out, sun came out and they lit up and then I realized the grey clouds were the fog. Clue was a road sign saying use lights in bad visibility.
Rode into Swakopsmund and had a ride around, found the sea front, next stop America but a long ride as the speed limit was 20km/hr. Only 11-30 so had a coffee, too cold for ice-cream. Then went off to find mile 4 campsite with its over eager staff to book me in. Decided on the backpackers block, not tent as it was only 50 dollars a night more (about 75p). Then found it is was a room on my own with my own cooking and bathing facilities.
Went off and did some shopping, lots of the staple dietary stuff, voers (chili) and biltong with some bread and rolls and green stuff to keep me healthy. Headed back and cooked lunch. Came out to do some sightseeing but actually ended up just riding around the town and the coast.
Going to spend tomorrow around Swakopsmund and the next Jarvis Bay and at some stage head north to see the skeleton coast, could be this afternoon.
Went to look around the town, old German for sure, museum very interesting and the breakwater and pier, not up to UK standard, no ice-cream and fish n chips. Walked around the museum and up the beach, nice cool day and an enjoyable three hours however forgot that I was walking away from the bike and had to walk back, ankle hurting again. Stopped at a caravan selling boerevoers rolls and green cream soda for lunch then on to bike. A bloke had said he would watch the bike and 3 hours later there he was sitting on the wall still. They do it for a tip which many do not give, what a way to earn a living but once again grateful for what he had done, gave him a big tip 2 pounds uk money it turns out and he told me which way to stick the Namibian flag on my box. Rode off and decided to head up the Skeleton coast.
Stopped in a road block by the police, said OK but it is in the box and went to climb off the bike, nice lady said oh that is too much bother its OK off you go have a nice day. Rode north along roads covered in sand, not sure if they were even tarmac at times, no sand dunes, just flattish with some plants and lichen, very spooky, no other vehicles and just a salt works/pans. The road is marked by a line of stones the colour of the sand, hard to follow at times. After 20km of this I thought I have no water or anything with me so did a u turn and headed back. Cannot explain the feeling I had but it is one desolate area of sand and sea somewhere to the left. No noise but wind and very damp with the sea mist and fog off the coast. Can see how it got its reputation, 1000km long and if shipwrecked in the past guess you had come to an end. Did see some bleached bones of animals but no human or wrecks, guess wrecks would not last that long anyway with salt and damp.
The aluminum on the bike is corroding already so had to spray bike in wd40 equivalent when I got back. Think tomorrow it’s a few liters of water and some more desert, one of the strangest and even surreal places I have ever been, totally out of my comfort zone, no sense of time or distance, question is, is it the place or its reputation?

Got up at 7 and headed north along the skeleton coast, more prepared this time, food and water. Found some sand dunes, had a ride on it and stayed on, looking at the tracks afterwards must have had a moment but did not notice. Then headed for Walvis Bay, a port with ships, flamingoes in the lagoon and red jelly fish. Found a lovely road sign in the desert, had to have a photo but states the obvious I thought. Great day and over 200 km on mixture of roads, gravel, tar and sand. Stopped and had lunch by the sea, rode the bike almost to the edge of Africa. Found the golden dunes from the ride in as well, they really are a different colour and beautiful to see and watch in the wind.
Headed back to Swakopsmund and stopped at the aquarium for an hour, very modern and big tanks with tunnels etc and then for food at the pier restaurant mussels in white wine sauce… hmmmm
Great day but need to head back to sort clothes ie clean them for trip tomorrow. Back through Windhoek then on towards Botswana.

Thursday 28th November.
Got up at 6 and bike ready to go at 7. Filled up and headed out. The sandy desert lasts for 35km, then scrub for next 180 before a full size tree appears near Windhoek. try walking out of that, no wonder its known as the skeleton coast. Been some rain about 80km into journey as there were big pools of water in the depressions but roads were dry. The Trans Kalahari highway, tarmac to the border I believe and one lane each way. When an abnormal wide load came along I found myself riding on the dirt verge, he just ploughed on regardless, what to do if you come over the brow of a hill and see him. Stopped to talk to a bike rider in a layby who gave me the gen on my route, miss Windhoek and get petrol at the airport 40 Km onwards he said. Took his advice, about 60km in the tank when I arrived but no petrol station and was told the next one was 150km away. Rode back to Windhoek and filled up (have a name for the man but will let you guess). How many times have I said, fill up when you can so my fault really. Other than that all was good, the gps started at 7 hours 30 mins to destination and counted back, got it to loose about 5 minutes an hour to destination. Was mostly long and straight but one again Windhoek came to the rescue with some lovely roads out over the mountains, nothing you could not do at 100km/hr though.
When I left I had my liners in the clothes and a pair of large UK winter gloves and was still cold riding along for the first 30 km. Freezing cold desert?? Was stopped in a police check point so pulled over and took the opportunity to partially disrobe and put on the summer gear bit cool to start but soon warmed up. The desert was actually looking green and this continued all the way to Gobabis where I decided to stop at 4. 600km today and not tired but back aches a bit.
Food today consisted of two spicy chilli sausages with salad in a roll and peeled cucumber, eating one for dinner. Also discovered that tea in a plastic bottle is still warm 4 hours later.
Got a museum I want to see tomorrow in town and then on to the border. Do not want to go through as there is apparently a guest house and campsite on the Namibian side that is a good stop off point.