Kenya toTanzaniaCan't remember when I left for Niavasha but got there. Headed out through Nairobi's lunatic rush hour (found an easy way, get in front of a female driver with children they are much less hurried) and got to the motorway, potholes, busses stopping, 12 inch lorry tracks (deep that is) in the tarmac, lorries travelling up hill at 2 mph being overtaken by lorries doing 3 mph. Out of the built up area and theen smooth, bendy, well cambered roads through the forests and then the view of the rift valley. Pictures can not show it. It was the most stunning view I have seen, had to stop and drink it in for an hour nearly. Headed off down this amazing road, up and down, twists, cars moving aside and the view going down into the valley was incredible, not good to do both at the same time but... Much better than the dirt track way down last week.
Stopped for some fuel and another look at where I was going, could see the lake. Headed off and found Fieshers Camp. Booked in and was the only one there, 20 people to look after me. All friendly and put up the tent, a mere 22 degrees C. Asked about the hippos and was told the best place. Headed out down a dirt twisty track between prickly pear hedges to a boat place to the amazement of locals and staff because tourists do not walk.
Got to the lake and met a boatman called Leonard the bushman who specialised in real life experiences for a fee and I agreed that as the nearest electric fence had been trampled by hippos maybe not the best thing for protection. Apparently more people are killed by hippos than crocodiles. We agreed that 6 a.m. the next morning would be good for meeting up and I headed off. They sky turned black, the temperature dropped dramatically, I was in thin trousers, riding boots and shirt, the skys opened and the view disappeared. By the time I got back I looked like a drowned rat. The staff felt so sorry for me they gave me a room key and told me go have a shower. Second one in 20 minutes but at least it was warm and my clothes were ashed. Had some fish and ugali (sudza or maize meal) and headed for some sleep.
Receptionist woke me up at 6-30 next morning. Got out of tent and ready in ten minutes headed out and there was Leonard waiting in a car in the camp carpark. Down to the boat here I payed up and he got the engine out and tied it on, donned life jackets and off. Just caught some hippos coming back to the water and others that had got back into it. Was amazing but he suddenly took off and stopped in some sunken trees (the lake has risen considerably in the last few years flooding lots of previously occupied building). He pointed at an eagle sitting in the tree and whistled, said very quietly get your camera ready. When I had he whistled again and threw a fish into the water, the fish eagle swooped down and took it and disappeared into the distance. We carried on and he showed me lots, took me for a walk to see wild amimals and got me very close to them. He sat and we talked about family and I said how my mother had flown out to Niarobi on a flying boat, he said to here, I said yes Kenya and said come I show you where they landed and stayed, the buildings are being renovated. In the boat and a lesson about how the colonials arrived in Kenya. Amazing to see the water where they landed and the buildings my Mum may have embarked into. Saw lots more and headed back after 2 hours, I said I would like to see flamingoes in Nakuru but no motorbikes were allowwed he said this afternoon I can take you nearer. So landed and went back for breakfast. The Bushman arrived at about twelve, but forgot, going through bush he explained the plants medicinal properties, which ones animals ate, very knowledgable man, all of about 25 I guess but brought up in area and loves the bush. We headed off in his car past the Born Free museum and along a very sandy track. Arriving at another lake he phoned someone and said it will be worth paying this man to go with you????? Man arrived agreed a fee and into boat. He directed the driver and off we went. Found all types of (wwell only 2 actually) and hundreds of flamingoes, boat scared them but watched them feed, take off everything, stunning love the way their long legs run along the water surface as they take off, then he asked if I could walk. Foot still slowing me down a lot. Said ok if slow so directed boat to shore and climbed out. Asked the driver and I take white stuff off move quietly. He lead us through zebra, giraffe, all sorts and back to the water edge where we sat. A group of hippos appeared out of the water not 20 yards away and I spent a good half hour just watching them go up and down whilst staring at us. Sounds stupid but loved every minute of it , they appeared very inteligent, territorial and caring re the family. The guide it turned out had a had a degree in wildlife tourism, no wonder he was good at it. He sent the boatman off to get the boat and pick us up a hundred yards away from the animals. I know I pay them to do a job but they really put themselves out to show me what I want and find out what I may want. But back to the car and camp where a couple of beers, dinner and bed. Went through the hundred and eighty photos, will delete at least 3 quarters.
Next day just sat around in the sun talking to staff at the camp. Manger for the complex arrived and tried to get me to go to the swimming pool but sat talking to the security gaurd on the gate. Great 3 days but off to Tanzania tomorrow or may stop in Nairobi to say goodbye to Simon and go to Arusha and Kilamanjaro Sunday. Dinner tonight Tilapia, fish from the lake (probably kept in fish tanks back home) and mash. Week and a half and have not managed one mile in the direction of South Africa (sorry Vee), going the wrong way guess it may be time to get serious about heading south for Christmas. Temperatures are only 70F in the evenings, booked a room for tonight but I as better off in the tent where it as cooler.
Internet it turns out is dial up so connections are difficult out here, may stop in Nairobi just to post this tomorrow before Kilamanjaro.