On September 27th, we are finally ready to leave for our big journey to Asia on our motorbike, after six weeks of waiting for our Indian visa. The visa for Pakistan and Iran are already in our passport.
Ready for Take-Off
We rest out for one day in Van, famous for its lake. We needed the rest after five full days and almost five thousand kilometres of driving and our bodies are aching from it. We also do some work on the motorbike and visit the area around Van.
Van Lake
Van Castle
On October third, we wake up early to leave for the Iranian border and as we are about to leave, a employee of the hotel informs us he knows somebody in Salmas, a small city not too far from the border. He says these people would be happy to welcome us in their home. We think this is a great opportunity to meet a local family and we gladly take the invitation.
Due to the troubles we had on the road in Turkey and the long border crossing we arrive quite late in Salmas, just before sunset. We go inside a small tea shop and ask the owner to ring the number of Mr. Nagi, given us in Van. He is happy to help us and offers us some tea while waiting. Not long after there is a man standing in front of us without saying a word. When we ask him if there is something we can do for him, he explains he is Mr. Nagi. We say goodbye to everyone in the tea shop and follow him to his house.
The road to Tehran goes smoothly but not far from the capital, it appears that the highway is closed and everybody has to leave the highway to make a detour. We ask the people blocking the road if it would be possible to let us through because we don't have a clue how to drive otherwise. To our surprise, they allow us on the highway and there we are, alone on a huge highway with no other car in sight accept for some construction vehicles. We quickly stop to take a picture and continue our way to Tehran.
Leaving Tehran is easier said then done. The city is huge and way overcrowded. One of the family members offers us to guide us out of the city with his car. When we drive over a speed bump, Kevin suddenly looses control over the bike and starts slipping. Probably this was caused by an oil spot. Luckily Kevin can keep the bike straight and after a few seconds he gains back control over the bike.
We go to pick up the Transalp early in the morning but apparently the parking doesn't open until eight o'clock. Therefore we have to wait an hour, a waste of time so after half an hour we start pounding on the door and the guard opens the door for us. We leave at eight thirty and we are quite nervous because now we are starting our journey through the desert of Baluchistan. This desert has a very bad safety reputation although the Iranian part doesn't face to many problems any more. It's the part in Pakistan where we must be really worried about.
We leave early in the morning for our last day driving in Iran. It's again a long drive through the desert but fortunately without sandstorms this time. We will spend two nights in Zahedan, close to the border with Pakistan, to rest and to prepare for our drive through Pakistan. People advised not to stay over with locals but to stay in a hotel. We got a telephone number from a cheap hotel, from our friends in Tehran so we don't have to look for a hotel this time.
In the early hours we leave for Taftan. After a few hours we were stopped at an army checkpoint and we are told we cant continue without escort, for alleged security reasons. The unarmed policeman stopped a car, got in and drives in front of us to the border. A few kilometres before the border he suddenly stops and tells us to wait. We have to wait a long time for another escort. This new escort is also helping us to finish the paperwork on the Iranian side in order. However, this changed nothing to the fact that this has been the worst border crossing so far.
Our overall impression of Iran was very positive. However, from the country itself, we havent seen that much. We couldnt really relax with Pakistan in mind. The population was a nice experience for us. These people are really the most friendly, most warm and most hospitable people we ever come across. We were welcomed everywhere and people were always smiling when they saw us. They offered us tea from their car, brandishing their thermos. Everyone waved at us, filmed us and took pictures. We are definitely famous now on the Iranian Youtube, haha.
In Pakistan, you will always get a police escort, but we had already read on forums that its usually not very comforting. This is also the case with us: Two old blokes on a bike. On 50 km/h through the hot desert, we already know we wont reach our goal for today, Dalbandin. Eventually we spend the night at the police station in Nok Kundi. This is all in all not too bad. The policemen are very friendly and welcoming. A bit glad though we took our comfortable air mattress.
The day seems to start well. The escort stands ready at our door around six-thirty and we can leave immediately. They drive like maniacs and we have trouble keeping up. Driving away is not an option anyway because we are in Punjab now. The police here are no joke, which you can see on their face. We are running out of money so we tell them we have to withdraw some money. But they tell us we have to wait for it and that our next escort would take care of that. Here is it that the trouble started. The ATMs accept only VISA cards, no Master Card.
Leaving Quetta initially goes quite smoothly. The escort is driving fast and there and no change of escorts so far. This changes now we are approaching the mountains. Again we have to wait and again we get an escort on a scooter. It takes about half an hour before we get to the next change of escort where we have to wait again. Now weve had it and we decide together not to wait for the escorts anymore. We drive fast, apologising to the escorts as they try to stop us, but we dont stop anymore at the following checkpoints. Often we are chased by police cars with sirens blaring.
At half past ten we stand ready when the border opens. Exiting Pakistan initially seems a bit difficult, because there are no clear signs where to go for the Carnet. But for the first time, everything is centred in one building and the people working there are quite helpful. All in all, exiting Pakistan goes smoothly and an hour later we are out.
There is not much we can tell you about Pakistan. It is not a country to go to and enjoy a nice holiday, due to the security situation in the country. Traveling North might be nice where you can find the Himalayas, and its considered to be safe. Last year, however, an Al-Qaeda militia slaughtered an entire group of tourists and their guide. Since then, the situation in this part is also quite precarious.
However, traveling seems safe enough, mainly because of the armed escorts who are constantly traveling with you. We didnt feel unsafe at any time.
Finally we are in India and what follows is a trip of 800 kilometres over three days.
Finally in India
The bad roads, the traffic, the constant honking, the smell, the dust and the constant quest for meat make it a true hell. We cant wait to leave India as soon as possible.
A Huge Hole in the Road
When we wake up we have about 250 kilometres to go to Banbassa, the Nepalese border town. At the pace of India, this means about a five hours drive. Just before the border we have to cross a dam where the cars in each direction have to cross in turn. No one says anything to us, but they probably think we can get through with the Transalp. This isnt the case with our wide panniers and mid bridge, the oncoming traffic begins to arrive. The first carriages are no problem, but with the first car we get stuck between the car and the railing because of which our mirror brakes.
After an hour we stop to eat and buy a map, because the GPS shows only one road in this remote area in western Nepal but we wish to explore more of Nepal than the average tourist. We drive into the mountains, but it takes longer than expected. When it gets dark we look for a place to sleep in the village of Budar. There are guest houses in the village but they are really basic; we doubt about what to do when a restaurant owner approaches us and asks us to stay with him. Out of courtesy, we take dinner in his restaurant and get the company of two little girls.
Today we leave early again. Its about 450km drive to Pokhara but the road appears to be good so it seems doable. The first part goes smoothly with good, straight roads. The second part goes through the mountains and is just turn after turn which makes it impossible to make any speed, although there were some nice views.
A Waterfall Along the Road
Jomsom Road is the main road through the Annapurna National Park. We are told its fairly manageable by motorbike. After a nice breakfast, we leave for the National Park. The entrance to the Park is located in Beni, about 80km from Pokhara. Here, we refill the bike and have lunch because we were told that everything in the Park is more expensive. Short after entering the park we notice the road is not much better than the impossible road but the vistas are again beautiful and make it worthwhile. Occasionally we do see snow peaks up to 7 km high and we also see a large waterfall.